Schiff Bases & Etsy Pressures
Tuberose has been renamed Agave amica from the previous Polianthus tuberosa. Some botanists hashed it out and published the new nomenclature in Phytotaxa, Vol. 306 No. 3: 12 May 2017. Make a note.
These taxonomy changes happen every so often, and most suppliers are slow to pick up the new Latin when they do. It's best to use both the old and the new when listing the raw material to avoid confusion, just until everyone gets used to the change.
It's been a busy research morning, and it's not even remotely over yet. I even used my own book, WTB II, as a reference! Now I'm jumping down the Schiff base rabbit hole. That ought to keep me busy for a minute. I have gathered the materials necessary to potentially create a few Schiff bases, all that's left, after the mixing, is to wait and evaporate, and in some cases, heat and evaporate. Since there is almost nothing to be found online about creating Schiff bases using naturals, I'm going to have to dive into experimentation to find out if it can even be done. Time seems to be the major component here, and if you know me, you know patience isn't a virtue that I possess in abundance.
UPDATE! 11-6-2022 I spoke with a perfumery chemist friend of mine who says Schiff bases CAN be made with naturals in combination with natural isolates. Tricky little tightrope, that.
One of my favorite soapmakers, Anastasia, aka eleneetha on Etsy, has packed up her soap molds, probably permanently for all online purchasing. I understand the pressure she is under 100%. Etsy's system of ranking sellers with their star seller awards, and customer service badges -- it's a lot. Not to mention the increase in costs from listing prices to transaction fees and processing fees, and they're always pushing sellers to offer deep discounts and free shipping on just about everything. If you're dealing in high-quality, top-drawer stuff combined with Etsy's depressing system of rewarding an artist for good behavior on their platform -- well, like I said, it's a lot. And then there are the reviews. All it takes is for someone to just not like what you sent and nothing else; a matter of 'just not my cup of tea' giving your shop a one or two-star rating to ruin the whole thing, as well as temporarily tank your confidence. I could rail for paragraphs about the stupid reasons someone gave me a lower-than-5-star rating, but what's the point? People do jerky stuff and don't think of the consequences their opinion has on the seller. I've done this to other sellers myself because I was having a bad day or really felt they hadn't given it their best effort, and I regret it now having been on the receiving end more than once. I've not done it since without good reason, such as a total misrepresentation of the items purchased, or really long shipping times (really long = 30 days+) without any communication from the seller. And last, and perhaps the most important, is the pressure from so-called loyal customers to make, make, make, to the point of threatening to buy elsewhere if they feel unheard, leave a bad review with a low-star rating, or worse, creating the thing they requested and letting them know it's available only to have them respond with, "Oh, thanks, but I don't really want it anymore." That's happened more times than I can count over the past 16 years on Etsy. You would think I'd know better, get a deposit or something.
See? Told you I could go on and on with this. Oh! And one more thing -- the raw materials to make all these wonderful aromatic goods has gone up three times what they were in 2020, some well into the prohibitively expensive bracket. So there is that too.
I totally understand what you're saying about Etsy pressures. I run a small Etsy shop (unrelated to fragrance, I make sewing patterns) and it's so frustrating to watch fees and restrictions climb up year after year and see how much everything hangs in the balance depending on customer reviews. I imagine it's even trickier in a space like fragrances and soaps, where tastes are so much more subjective and it's so much more likely that a perfectly good product might just not be the right one for you.
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DeleteSuper interesting abt the schiff bases... quick gewgle and i now have extremely cursory knowlege lol , but i can only assume that it can be done with naturals. ... just probably harder to like, standardize, and publish a Totally Scientifical paper on lol (plus , without the funding for scientifical institutions that comes from synthetic industry to push ttly scientifical develops in their pref direxions).
ReplyDeleteEven without deliberately angling for a chemical reaction, u&i both know there is undeniable molecular canoodling that takes place in a natural composition. Beyond just the fizzy topnotes getting all up the fixatives.... yaknow? Esterification and whatnot... (the glorious kind, not the zombie water kind lol). ... as in the case of frankincense and white sage becoming gardenia-y? ?? sounds esterish and whatnot to me . :)
lol :) :) i'm probably missing the point and i cant really pretend to know xactly what ur tryna do but. ... sounds really cool. <3
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I really hear you about the difficulties of having a functional hustle on any sort of megaplatform... &could go onanon as well lol, but
...,
while they have had considerable value for some specific reasons (mostly networking; allowing worthwhile people to be visible), the sheer amount of resources and exploitation required to keep the meta-behemoths breathing is rapidly becoming untenable. I forsee a revival of a craft guild mentality, with localized production nodes in a mutualistic global network of exchange and collaboration. Maybe that is what you are aiming towards with the TBS? Lots of respect and appreciation for that, regardless. It takes lots of different people coming at things from different angles.
:) <3
Dav
I spoke with a perfume chemist friend and he says that Schiff can be made with natural isolates and naturals. I have a whole page of stuff written down that he told me about; process, time, that kind of thing, and a couple of practice starting points. All of this points to the standardization of the chemicals and the reaction they have to make them Schiff bases. He did not say how useful they might be.
DeleteYes, there is definitely something going on there. I had wondered, after those two materials, the frankincense and white sage, turned all white floral, if this was something that could be tinctured and what that might be like. The only way to find out is to do it.
I guess what I'm trying to do is make it more cost efficient for natural perfumers to create perfumes with mock ups that continue to work over time and don't separate or end up smelling different after a year. It is a real balancing act.
Yeah, I'm not even certain I want to go back to Etsy or if I want to do something else. Maybe build a website that links to Etsy as the selling platform. I feel like there isn't enough on Etsy to do what I want to do. They do have the website option, but really, it's just another ploy to get their hands back into pockets. I'd rather have 100% control over some aspect of this selling gig. There is a lot to mull over these next 9 or so months.
I cannot tell you how anxious I am to get TBS up and running, even as just an entity without non-profit status until we obtain it. What will make it work are all of those diverse ideas and angles they bring to TBS. I've noticed in the past year that everyone is talking about Tapputti, so the society won't be an unknown entity when we finally launch.
Talk soon :)