Monday, April 20, 2015

A Little Bit of Griping, A Little Bit of Incense, A Lot of Hot Air

Why is it when I set aside a little time for experimentation, suddenly everyone needs something from me, like, right now? A ride, a few bucks, keep an eye on something (don't move while doing so), organize something, wash something, cook something -- it's flippin' exhausting! I feel like a puppy chasing its tail these days. Basically sick of being everyone else's rock and no one being mine. I got nothin', except this jar of frankincense. And a bag of sandalwood chips. And some weird black resin that sort of smells like frankincense but mostly smells like feet. And I think I'm retaining water.

I know I already wrote a bit about the goods from Mermade Magickal Arts, but my nifty little candle powered incense burner arrived from Germany and I've had a chance to actually warm some of those baubles and bits, to my utter astonishment. The Labdanum & Myrrh pastilles are insane! The room began to fill with scent almost the moment I dropped a piece of the resin onto a wee bit of foil in the burner dish -- now the room is awash in labdanum's bitterish amber warmth. This incense reminds me just how much I appreciate and love labdanum resin, the rawest and hairiest form that can be found.
Labdanum & Myrrh Pastille ~ Mermade Magickal Arts

Long view: Labdanum & Myrrh Pastille
Yesterday I burned a pinch of Floating World and -- well, amazing again. The quality of the raw materials used in these incense selections is phenomenal. Top drawer all the way around. And funny, this time around, I barely caught the camphor note in Floating World, not the way I had a few days ago when my head was swimmy with hay fever.

I also burned a few bits of genuine Mysore sandalwood chips that I received from JK DeLapp and damn near passed out! The scent was beyond words, and so intense. My wee cottage house smelled like a temple!
I guess I'm really feeling put out right now with all the home maintenance and catering to ding bats who can't seem to wipe their own bums without assistance and really, REALLY, the core of it all is that I haven't had time to sit down and create. There's a backlog of scented ideas in my head that are just screaming to come out, but the damned cat wants to be fed! Right. Flippin'. Now.

Gotta run.

Sunday, April 12, 2015

The Floating World, Puh-Er Tea, and Sandalwood of Exquisite Origins

I've been very busy lately, not just with the perfumery, but with life and the various and sundry curveballs it seems to enjoy throwing in my direction. I suppose it's no different from anyone else's life, it's just in how you handle it that determines whether you become an open human being or a perpetual victim. I choose moving on and not giving the issue any more attention than is required to deal with it -- there's a life to be lived here and a finite amount of time in which to live it.

I ordered some new raw materials that I'm dying to share with you. From Katlyn Breene of Mermade Magickal Arts I received costus root (skunky!), some calamus root, and a packet of wispy warm powdered Himalayan juniper wood. The costus blows my mind, as costus usually does. It's deeply animalic and skunky and armpitty, but oh, so alluring and primal, and dare I say it -- sexy? My experience with costus up until about a year ago was limited -- most of it was highly diluted (now I understand why) and not terribly impressive, plus it's on the no-no list with the IFRA, banned because it's a very strong sensitizer. The problem with the IFRA banning stuff is that often the amounts necessary to cause an adverse reaction are hundreds if not thousands of times higher than what one would be exposed to in a leave on product. That isn't 100% the case in all instances, but it's pretty darned close. Some of the reason the IFRA bans or restricts stuff is based on the LACK of research and lack of funding to conduct research, hence it is stricken off the list of useable raw materials because they simply don't know what it does, if anything. I digress . . .
Costus root smells of dark, loamy earth and skunk butts. If one were to make a natural musk incense, this would be the go-to raw material to get that musk funk. I could probably also find a use in a cannabis themed incense, providing the desired "skunk" note of a well-grown plant.

Calamus is a material I used to use years ago in soap making, before I found out it was on the IFRA's no-no list. It was used as a magickal element in a soap called Green Man. The root is more herbal than rooty, however, I must confess to a recent bout of hayfever, so my nose may be off a bit. It's clean and fresh and more like cedar than something dug from the earth. I'll have to get back to it once this allergy issue clears up.

I also got a few dabs and dashes of finished incense and wee samples of other raw materials from Mermade -- we'll begin with the exquisite and mouthwatering Labdanum & Myrrh Frankincense Pastilles ~ Ho-Ly Mo-Ly! The labdanum is rich and warm and silky unburned -- gorgeous and toe-curling stuff. I've not burned any of the incense yet because I'm awaiting a fancy-pants brass censer from Germany to arrive so I can do it up right. The texture of these pastilles is like dirt clods, only denser and more sturdy -- they don't crumble away when you press them but will break up with some effort. The scent, as I said, is divine -- hits the pineal gland like the beating of a gong. Next is the kyphi -- sweet and powdery, resinous and honied -- very nice. I hope to learn more about it once it burns. Next is a light green frankincense tear, sacra of Omani, and it looks like a gemstone rather than a glob of oleoresin. It is fabulous. It sparkles and shines with cool and warm notes. There are no high bitter notes coming off this frankincense. Then there is Floating World, a finished incense. It is transportive. Moving. Gets you in the gut and the heart. I smell the camphor in it like I've never smelled camphor before. Usually camphor, despite how hard the incenseur works it, smells like a note out of the song, a brassy horn, out of tune and out of place in a composition of cellos, but this camphor is completely entwined within the music of the incense, a piece that if missing would throw off the entire composition. This one I cannot wait to get burning. I believe the reason that I really caught the camphor is because it's what my head needs right now -- with the hayfever abating and the sinuses being a bit sore and raw, the camphor is a balm. Again, I'll get back to it once I burn it with clear sinuses to let you know. All in all, everything from Katlyn is top drawer luxury.

Floating World

Another package I received came from JK DeLapp, a doctor of Chinese medicine, a fragrance compounder and perfume educator living in Georgia, USA. He sent these beautiful puh-er teas with osmanthus, rose, and chrysanthemum -- can you imagine? Chrysanthemum tea? I've only tried the rose and it was, to say the least, a revelation. I'm a huge tea fan, so this probably wasn't a hard sell here. It reminds me of the smell of Teazer World Tea Market in Fresno, CA, a little shop that started in the heart of the Tower District and has expanded to include a total of four shops in Fresno. Again, I digress . . . rose puh-er is earthy and subtle, and best served warm. It's a very round tea, meaning it doesn't have weird bitter notes in the back, like an over steeped black or green tea can have. It's smooth and calming and delicious. I haven't tried the other teas, the chrysanthemum that I drool over, or the osmanthus. I'm saving those for days when I need to treat myself. Also in the package from JK I received wee samples of sandalwood, and not just any sandalwood, the good stuff, the Japanese grade stuff, the stuff used in ceremony and ritual, the stuff that makes you dream in magenta and gold with the sound of bells tinkling in the wind. It's so exquisite, so warm and creamy and buttery and lush that I'm afraid to burn it! But I will, once my little brass brazier makes it in.

Another post about these gifts will follow in a few weeks. I have to get my head clear and the censer set up to really do these incenses any justice. Until then, may you be blessed with sweet smells as well.

Wednesday, April 08, 2015

New Natural Perfume Course Begins April 20, 2015

The Natural Perfume Academy is happy to announce the newest session opening for the natural botanical perfume course. If interested, contact the administrator at

Natural Perfumes 2010

Sunday, March 29, 2015

What a roller coaster few weeks it's been! Personal stuff, business stuff, other folks' stuff -- it's overwhelming, yet . . . the sanity remains because I've got incense. And aged sandalwood oil. And a big bottle of beautiful cane alcohol. And determination not to let the world get me down. Just finished up an enfleurage of pink jasmine and made it (the pommade) into a hair serum that included some nicely aged sweet, buttery, warm, creamy Sri Lankan sandalwood oil from the heartwood. It's incredible! I'm still working on the lilac enfleurage (ran out of lilac but should be restocking those in a few days). Lilac takes a long time, especially since I don't use deodorized coconut oil. I love the rich coconut-y-ness of unrefined organic coconut oil. There's also a bit of French grapeseed oil for the antioxidants, vitamin E in particular. I'm tempted to keep the entire batch for myself, but alas, bills must be paid and work enjoyed.

Finally -- after what now, a year? -- got through all the boxes in the garage from the move and found the last bits of raw materials that had been missing from the organ this whole time. One would think that being in a dusty garage in a box for a year would make it all turn bad, but this garage is fully insulated and stays pretty much the same temperature all year round -- about 60 degrees Fahrenheit. Besides, it never really gets hot HOT here. Found a 50% dilution of Biolandes cypress bioabsolute -- stunning! Smells like fresh fig flesh and blonde tobacco. It's really quite special. I also found a well-aged bottle of frankincense absolute, an eight ounce unopened bottle of Indonesian vetyver oil -- grassy, green notes in this one -- and my wee bottle of blue lotus phytol (3 grams remain). Oh, and a tin with 18 grams of apple blossom concrete, extra rare, that, and probably not much floating about in the world. I might be convinced to sell off a few grams since I will never, ever use it (all).

I'm once again considering teaching classes in person (I know, I say this often) but I've gotten a bit of encouragement from a local shop keep who would like to host a few workshops. I just need to get my head back into the game and make a plan for the workshops. Something I can handle with all that I do, without getting overwhelmed and wearing myself out. As an introvert, a day out shopping in crowds is often enough to send me to the divan for the remainder of the day, so a day spent teaching people eager for information can put me to bed!

Friday, March 13, 2015


Based upon universal rules, I should have been out of this gig long ago. I started with zero spare dollars in my pocket, five unruly kids in the house, a stressful part-time job, and a partner who'd tuned way, way, way out (he had his reasons), which left me to either flounder in the raising of children, keeping house, and working a hatefully stressful part-time job, OR flounder in the raising of children, keeping house, working a super stressful part-time job, AND creating aromatic art. I chose the latter. And let me tell you, it wasn't easy. Fast forward 17 years to where I am now, no small children in the house except for the occasional babysitting job, a partner who at least grunts every now and then, and years and years of experience in the trenches, nearly all of which went completely uncompensated. Why would anyone keep going knowing that year after year they were throwing money in a hole that might never fill up? Me, obviously. Because I'm stubborn, obstinate, determined, and tenacious. Because while doing it, as long as I told myself it was an education, it justified the costs. Because if I stopped, I might have withered up and floated away having never encountered the joy inspired by a beautifully crafted artisan extract of hyacinth, or felt the glow of saffron in shea, or met some of the most amazing human begins I've ever known.

Wednesday, March 04, 2015

Natural Incense Sticks and Their Creation

Some time ago I bought up a bundle of naked organic bamboo incense sticks to create my very own self-igniting incense. Since that time, way back some time ago, I've made experimental batch after experimental batch of crap. Whoever said making incense from scratch was easy wasn't telling the truth. In fact, I'd say they were straight up lying, and possibly laughing at me behind their hands. I have figured out a few things, though, with all those garbage batches. Patience, for one. Humility, for another. I've also ferreted out what works and what doesn't and to what degrees they do or do not work. Dust works, grains do not. The problem with dust, however, is that I'm blowing it out of my nose after a mixing session. Grains don't quite make it up that far . . .

I'm working on a new rolling technique, one found on Youtube (of course). Once I get it down, I'll video the process and share it here -- or someplace. There's a new instant incense stick machine on the market that's taking over all the jobs of the ladies on the roofs who have been hand rolling each stick since incense stick making was born. (not the exact same ladies, obviously). This machine harkens an end of an era. And puts a lot of ladies out of work. As we've seen time and again, progress doesn't always mean something good. While this machine will put more money in the machine owner's pocket, it yanks it free of the ladies on the roofs' pockets, many of whom are supporting families with this work. And one can't help but wonder what kind of meditative vibe a machine made stick puts out into the universe.

In my incense stick making researching forays on the interweb, I discovered a few other disheartening truths. Not all is what it seems in the incense stick making world. One business in particular surprised me. They were being transparent about their process, which is a good thing, but to call something handmade or handcrafted and then only actually crafting part of the finished product seems a bit dishonest. Like when I made 'hand dipped incense sticks' back in the olden days of my scent life, I got raves for my incense because it was so extra smelly. I felt like a flippin' fraud, though, because I was buying pre-made incense punks, unscented, and soaking the punks in buckets of incense oil, some natural, some not so, as I found out later. I'd bundle them up into packs of 200, filled a small pail with scent oil (no DPG), and drop the punks head first into the bucket for an hour or three. Then the bundles were pulled from the bucket and spread over butcher's paper to dry. I made them, but only sort of. These kind of sticks are prevalent and they have their place, but not in my studio. Not anymore. There is an art to creating incense sticks, and all incense in general, that is utterly lost when we machinize the process, or cut corners, for mass production. You can't phone this stuff in. 

Snob rant over.

First shot at a paste that actually stuck to the stick


Tuesday, February 24, 2015

New Natural Perfumery Course Begins March 22/23 ~ Preregistration Required

We are beginning a new class in natural perfumery in March. You can pay in 6 Monthly payments of 146 USD (with the first payment securing your place and the other 5 coming out automatically every month). Read the FAQ for more info. To avail of the early bird special offer please go to click on the course entitled: "Natural Botanical Perfume Six Month Intensive (Spring 2015)" If you are already a member of the academy then login to be taken to the payment page. If you are not a member please click the Create New Account button and follow the instructions. You will then be taken to the payment page where you can complete your enrolment. This offer only applies for one week from the 24th of February to the 3rd of March.

Photo: We are beginning a new class in natural perfumery in March. You can pay in 6 Monthly payments of 146 USD (with the first payment securing your place and the other 5 coming out automatically every month). Read the FAQ for more info. To avail of the early bird special offer please go to click on the course entitled: "Natural Botanical Perfume Six Month Intensive (Spring 2015)" If you are already a member of the academy then login to be taken to the payment page. If you are not a member please click the Create New Account button and follow the instructions. You will then be taken to the payment page where you can complete your enrolment. This offer only applies for one week from the 24th of February to the 3rd of March.

Thursday, February 19, 2015

It's Been a While

Still working on Working the Bench II almost daily now. I also have another writing project in the works helping out a friend get her book to the public. I'm really excited about that. I've also been busy creating things again. It gets like this when I write about perfumery and perfume-related things. I get inspired to create, and then that folds itself back into the writing. I'm in a good place right now and I'm going to take advantage before things change, as they inevitably do.

So I leave you with these words of wisdom:

"Thirty years ago my older brother, who was ten years old at the time, was trying to get a report written on birds that he'd had three months to write, which was due the next day. We were out at our family cabin in Bolinas, and he was at the kitchen table close to tears, surrounded by binder paper and pencils and unopened books about birds, immobilized by the hugeness of the task ahead. Then my father sat down beside him put his arm around my brother's shoulder, and said, "Bird by bird, buddy. Just take it bird by bird.” Anne Lamott, Bird by Bird: Some Instructions on Writing and Life

Sunday, January 11, 2015

Working the Bench, Now With Expanded Table of Contents and Somewhat Useful Index!

So the newest revision of WTB is complete and only for sale through Createspace's estore -- availability through Amazon and the other sales channels will be ready by the 15th of January (2015). In case you're in a big hurry to get your copy 'n' all that.

The new Table of Contents is nice -- very useful, and makes me wonder for the one hundredth time why I didn't think of it before. This is what editors are for, but when one is one's own editor, these things manage to get away.

The index feels strange to me. I'm a big index searcher so when I created the index, I tried to think of all the keywords I'd want to know more about, but I'm almost certain to have forgotten a half dozen or so. I would hope that anyone reading the book would offer some constructive criticism about what they feel should be included in the index -- what types of keywords they searched and couldn't find. I'm done with all the nasty folks with ulterior agendas who take swipes under the moniker 'anonymous'. You people can go kick rocks. Yeah, I'm a tad bitter about the snarky 'you're caca, your mama's caca, your family's caca, so that's why I didn't take your book seriously, but read it anyway before returning it, you fat caca' remarks. Okay, maybe I'm a lot bitter - haha! So much for not taking these things personally, eh? I'm working on it. I am!

Some of you may know, if you were paying attention to previous ramblings here, that I've started a second book, Working the Bench II, that covers more advanced work, offers more formulations (real ones), and expands into other scent-related topics that will help a perfumer move forward in their work. It will cover topics ranging from how to utilize accords in perfume formulations, use of natural isolates, evaluation of base materials, creating functional fragrance, creating rare extracts from enfleurage, a perfumery in food chapter, setting up shop, networking, mentors and mentoring, regulations, financial management, and a whole bunch more stuff for the serious minded perfumer. Again, as I say in the introduction to WTB, I don't have all the answers, I just know what works for me and I think it might work for a few others as well. Date of release: sometime in the future. I'd thought initially to get it done in a few month's time, dedicating myself to writing and researching at least two hours a day, but life and work and normal human things got in the way. Working the Bench, the original, as shown above, is about 45,000 words; WTBII is currently at 8,300 words. Writing daily stopped in August. But I've started a challenge, to myself for myself, to write every day for at least an hour for 30 days and see what it gets me. How far this can get in that amount of time. It might inspire me, and then again, it might make this whole endeavor seem endless. Either way, it's getting done.

Speaking of books, I've been reading a lot lately. Just finished a book about kodo written by Pybus, and am now embarking on 'Dangerous Tastes: The Story of Spices' by Andrew Dalby. Also knocked out 'Night' in a couple hours because I'm a glutton for emotional punishment. Currently on the lookout for a book on tea leaf reading, so if any of you reading this blog post can recommend one, please do. On the 'fume front I've been gathering the goods for body incense (zukoh) and it's a tricky thing to find ingredients which are to be used in their raw form that won't cause an allergic or sensitizing or irritating reaction. Traditional Japanese zukoh formulations almost all have cinnamon and/or clove spice in them. Neither needs to be included in vast amounts to impart their scent but there are sensitizing and irritation issues to consider there. I plan on either not incorporating those spices into my body incense formulations, or using them very sparingly. This isn't going to be 'traditional' zukoh, but straight up gorgeous body incense. More to follow on that as well.

Thursday, January 08, 2015

Buddha, Branding, and Makko

I spent most of last evening working in the kitchen/studio hopping between three projects and finally feeling like some headway was being made. I am enamored of incense these days -- all sorts of incense from all corners of the globe, and working on projects which will reflect the growing love. It's all about the raw materials in the right hands. From cooking to sewing to gardening to scenting, the quality of the basic ingredients (foodstuff, fabric, seeds and soil, herbs and spices and woods and flowers) in the hands of a skilled artisan are paramount to creating a top quality end product. But sometimes, the raw materials sing alone, their quality and beauty unmarred even in the hands of a bumbler.

The stillpot was bubbling last night with a lovely mash of Buddha's hand citron -- the hydrosol is delicate and sweet, slightly tangy and floral. It's very nice. I used Buddha's hand citron tincture earlier last year in a Florida Water formulation (Farat) and it added to the neroli and petit grain notes, creating a seamless transition from the tart of lemon to the sweet of neroli, so I really enjoy the scent of Buddha's hand citron. Buddha's hand is seasonal, showing up in the markets in late December and early January, so if you intend to work with the stuff, now is when you should jump on any that you find. They can be tinctured, distilled, and even made into a pomade. The dried skin can also be used in cooking and incense.

The days have been spent going through the incense raw materials, finding lost treasures and getting reacquainted with old friends. I'm really digging makko right now, as an ingredient for scent rather than as a binder. The scent is beautiful -- masculine, woody, spicy, like cinnamon and nutmeg and ginger, warm. It blends well with santal and frankincense, creating a 'handsome', bold and full scent. Some experiments with body incense have commenced -- the results to be announced some time this year.

Last night was also spent working on 'branding'. I realize it's a little late in the game, and my ideas for labels and logos and branding over the past 15 odd years resemble the actions of a squirrel crossing the street in heavy traffic, but it wasn't for naught. I have a clear vision of what I want, I simply am incapable of executing that vision, and I'm not in a position to hand over thousands of dollars to someone else with more skill than I to do the work for me. I am closer, though, and below is an example of what I'm working toward. I plan to stick with this label for the year before deciding whether to fine tune and embellish, or get rid of it entirely and start from scratch -- again. It isn't a matter of reinvention but a matter of definition.

Basic label
Label with product information included

Wednesday, January 07, 2015

Table of Contents and Indexes

I've started a blog post here and then deleted it about a half dozen times in the past seven days. My mood was one of angst and aggression, feeling like I had to call out my detractors (whoever they may be) and give them a verbal pounding. But the truth is, I really can't care. I do care, for a moment, yes, then I sleep on it, work through it -- usually by creating something fabulous -- and my higher self dissuades me from exposing their insecurities and envy and general dissatisfaction with life. Yes, haters are going to hate, and yes, sometimes their target is me. I'll let that darkness eat away at them because I'm going to continue doing what I do -- apparently, that's pissing people off one anonymous critic at a time ~ ha! I have received valuable feedback that can be used to fix a problem with the book Working the Bench. Being criticized in a way that allows for growth is criticism I can get behind. Being flippant, snarky, mean-spirited, and pretending to have personal insight says a whole lot more about your crazy head than it says about mine.

Table of Contents and Indexes


CHAPTER 1 ~ In the Beginning

Perfume History – Aenone – Aphrodite’s Island perfumery - Persian kings – Stabon - Ancient Egyptians - Kyphi – De Materia Medica, Dioscorides – Modern Kyphi Formulation – Cleopatra – Ancient Greeks – Ancient Rome – Silk & Spice Trade Routes – Crusades – Abu Ali Sina – Distillation – Middle Ages – Renaissance – Black Plague – Jean Valnet – Four Thieves – Alcohol Perfume – King Charles V, France – Carmelite Water – Queen Elizabeth, Hungary – King Charles VIII – Catherine de Medici – Rene de Florentine – Henry II, France – Scented Gloves – Grasse, France – Elixers of Nostradamus – Tombarelli – Perfume Industry Born – Josephine & Napoleon – French Revolution – Armand Gustave Houbigant – Joseph Farina – Eau de Cologne – Historical Perfumery Ingredients – Rose – Jasmine – Frankincense – Myrrh – Tuberose – Neroli – Citrus & Petit Grain – Civet, Musk, Ambergris – Orris – Benzoin – Belle Epoch – Loie Fuller – Art Nouveau                                                                                                            1

Yep. Those are what are left out of the book. Well, there is a table of contents, but it's minimal and only states the chapter names -- very creative chapter names -- that may or may not alert the reader to what's actually within the chapters. I've fixed that issue, so when I upload the contents of the latest revision, anyone ordering a WTB book after, say, April or so, will have a more comprehensive table of contents. I'm currently working on the index, and can I just say that this is not easy? I love indexes -- in other folks' books mostly and mainly because I didn't have to put them there, and because they're invaluable. I'm actually excited about the index. Now even I will be able to find where topics are located in my stupid book!

I have not sat idle these past weeks since the frenzy of buy, buy, BUY! has ended. I've been quietly gathering the goods for more Kyphi, specifically a nice boswellia neglecta resin that's rich and balsamic -- warm, resinous, slightly spicy, with tones of cedar and dust. I've got my hands on my juniper berries again -- I go through juniper like mad, can't seem to keep the stuff stocked! I love juniper berries for a lot of reasons. They remind me of comfort and security. When I was a kid growing up in the mountains, we did eat our fair share of venison, and venison roast was nothing without juniper berries. And then there's gin. Though I don't imbibe often, gin is my poison of choice. I've even used gin to soak the fruit for Kyphi!

And, once again, I'm attempting to create universal labels with The Scented Djinn logo on them that can pass as 'branding' -- finally. The current soap labels are very close to what I want to have as the permanent universal label, just not 100% yet. Tweaking is involved.

I am currently distilling two beautiful Buddha's hand citron, found at the farmer's market, into hydrosol. The farmer's markets in this area are the best I've ever encountered, though it does seem quite funny to me that in order to get good valley produce, one must live near the coast because those valley farmers can't, or won't, sell locally. Their locally, not my locally. I've met cheese makers from Kerman, citrus farmers from Orange Cove, and honey people from Lindsay at the Monday market in Los Osos.  These same sellers are at the Templeton market on Saturdays, and some are even at the Thursday market in San Luis Obispo. So. Makes one wonder if anybody is getting good produce in the valley if all the growers are selling over here.

Wednesday, December 31, 2014

A Happy New Year

Wishing you all a very happy, prosperous, fulfilling, joyous, creative, loving new year!

2014 and the tail-end of 2013 were doozies for me -- mostly a 13-month spree of loss and affirmation, the message that life is short so you'd better get your sh*t together, or appreciate the sh*t you have, or get out of a sh*t situation that isn't serving you, or any number of other things involving, um, sh*t. Y'know?

This was a great year for The Scented Djinn ~ the biz finally made some financial headway. And, much, much, much more importantly, I'm finally creating scented art I love and feel comfortable standing behind. Truly and completely. Though not entirely commercial successes, 2014 introduced two really great perfumes from The Scented Djinn ~ Farat, a lovely and intense eau de cologne in the vein of vintage Florida Water; and Modhlim, a rich, spicy, dark floral eau de parfum. Kyphi was the other truly wonderful thing that happened to The Scented Djinn this year as well. Incense in general, Kyphi in particular, it's taken the biz on a journey that has yet to end.

Collaborations have sprung from this closing year as well -- collaborations with folks who are interested in beginning a journey into aromatics, distilling for oils and hydrosols; collaborations and study sessions with other scentophiles, and the boon of receiving a cache of vintage oils that have greatly expanded olfactory knowledge for both myself and those with whom the cache was shared. It's been an extraordinary year on nearly all fragrant fronts.

Happy and Blessed New Year! 

Friday, December 26, 2014

Make perfume you would like to wear. That goes for soap, body butters, body oils, balms, even incense (though you may not want to wear it). You can't go wrong if you follow your muse.

Tuesday, December 16, 2014

Potions from the Apothecary

I've talked about doing one of these little formulation booklets for ages, something simple, real, taken directly from the formulation notebooks I used for Sierra Soapourri, Delicia, and older formulations from The Scented Djinn.

This one in particular is from around 2003, from the archives of formulation notebooks in the Sierra Soapourri era.

There are nine formulations in total, four butter soap formulations, three scrub/masque formulations, and two body oil formulations.

This little compilation of formulations is available for instant download at my Etsy shop.

Friday, December 12, 2014

From the Apothecary of Dabney Rose

Calycanthus, Carolina sweet shrub, spice bush ~ I know nothing about this except that it arrived in a package from across the country, along with a few other things, which I will be discussing here. My Carolina sweet shrub arrived in the form of a wee bundle of sticks, trussed up to look like a miniature packet of kindling. My first impression upon breaking one of the sticks was one of resin, bitterish and green with a spicy punch -- crushed pink peppercorn, galbanum, violet leaf, labdanum, pine pitch, and juniper berry. It's an edible scent with an agrestic twist, like a lovely spice from far away that one might add to a savory cream dish or sprinkle atop wild fowl. This bundle will definitely be dried and added to an incense in the future.

Long leaf pine ~ ooh! This scent, I'm sure, can be smelled everywhere this tree grows. It's loud and lovely and not pine-like at all. It smells of the sweetest alfalfa ever mown, tremendously grassy and green with a sweetness that verges on floralness and juicy fruit (raspberry, mango). The resin from the branch holds all the piney notes, and yet the resin isn't pitchy and sharp or camphoraceous, but again, sweet and green and slightly floral with a fruity overtone.

Now those are just the raw materials in their original forms, and as stunning, surprising, and beautiful as they are, they are mere shadows compared to what Dabney Rose can do with them given a little time and a lot of ingenuity and imagination. Though my affiliation with Dabney Rose has been a long one, a few years at least, it hasn't been until very recently that we've been in fairly regular contact with one another in collaboration, not of projects, but of ideas, and this harkens to my belief, and apparently Dabney's as well, that we can be friends and competitors in this business, and do both quite well without harming the other. She and I bring a lot to our little table and we both of us share this information freely, like two old friends sipping tea on the veranda discussing apple pie recipes. I am deeply envious of her abilities to extract scent via enfleurage -- she's a magician when it comes to this technique, and if you're ever given the opportunity to purchase one of her enfleurage creations, do yourself a favor and buy it. You won't regret it, I promise. Her creations are pure and fuss free and original -- she's the real deal. 

Long leaf pine CONCRETE ~ yes, a concrete! This is long leaf pine plus a thousand. If one were to sniff this without knowing what it was, it would never be guessed as pine. It is floral. Straight up like bulb florals -- jonquil and narcissus which fold back to reveal a mellow greenness more like river moss than grass. It's absolutely amazing.

Hyacinth Extract 2012 ~ Stunning. This IS hyacinth in a wee vial. Unlike the hyacinth evulsion I made a few years back, this extract is clear and sparkly without the muddy, earthy notes, so I'm guessing this is an extract of enfleurage, which is a much better way to extract the scent from hyacinth or any delicate floral than is direct contact with the flower and alcohol. It's that initial hyacinth hit one gets when hyacinth introduces herself to your olfactory organ. It begins with a gentle little poke of powdery sweetness and quickly expands into blinding sweet headiness and floral drunkenness. The longevity of this extract is impressive. I applied a drop to my hand about 20 minutes ago and the scent lingers yet.

Ginger Lily & Santal Co-Emulsion ~ This is so beautiful. Sublime. It's a rich, warm, sweet santal with a gorgeous white floral cloak. Exotic and tropical and sexy. This could get someone in trouble in the sexy-time department, if you catch my less than subtle drift. It's got the gut punch impact that fragrant aphrodisiacs possess. I'll stop now ~ ha!


Related Posts with Thumbnails