Friday, December 26, 2008

Rose Floral Essence Evaluation

9 essences diluted in organic grain alcohol.

Included with Essence Evaluation Kit are full instructions regarding how to conduct the evaluation, master code sheets with full details of essence being evaluated (code letter and #, Latin name of essence, common name, date of purchase, supplier, country of origin, dilution ratio and/or tincture information), and one pack of 100 scent strips.

Essences are provided in organic grain alcohol and bottled in 1.5 ml vials.

Mix 'n Match this kit with other kits at The Scented Djinn Etsy Apothecary.

Rose Floral Essence Evaluation Kit includes:
Tea rose
Rose absolute
Rose de Mai absolute
Rose damask
Rose geranium
Geranium Bourbon
Rose otto

Visit The Scented Djinn Etsy Apothecary.

Monday, December 22, 2008


I'm a firm believer in freecycling ~ no, it's not riding a bike naked. It's a way to recycle those things you possess which you no longer want or need but are still useful to someone, WITHOUT the hassle of yard sale~ing or ebay~ing. And I NEVER throw out books.

My freecycle item today is a near-new copy of "Perfumes The Guide" by Luca Turin and Tania Sanchez. I've gotten about as much as I'm going to out of it and really need to make space on my bookshelf for -- um -- something else. It's in pretty good condition -- dust jacket is accounted for, pages are completely unmarked, a nice copy.

So, send me an e-mail and I'll get this out to you probably after the 25th. Of this month.

*Update: This went fast. Somebody was quick on the draw and the book is gone.

Wednesday, December 17, 2008


I'm not going to wax poetical about "'tis the season" and all that, but I am going to ask you all to give. Donate. Homeless shelters are packed to capacity these days. Packed with kids who aren't going to have much of a holiday this year, through no fault of their own, or even of their parents and caretakers. It's rough out there right now.

Pack up a bag of non-perishable food and haul it down to a church or homeless shelter. Hit up the dollar store and buy $10 worth of toys to donate.

Before this crap economy hit, I thought I was doing the world a service by donating a little to the local keeping it green group, and in a small way, I was. I see a need that goes way beyond planting a tree or providing coats and shelter to a family left jobless and homeless because the powers that be played fast and loose with their futures. Give.

Beginning today (December 17th) through January 3rd, The Scented Djinn will donate 50% of the proceeds from all sales of Serj Eau de Parfum, which is also being offered to you at 50% off the regular price. So, a $65 bottle of Serj EdP will cost you $32.50, $16.25 of which will be sent directly over to the Poverello House here in my hometown.

After January 3rd, $10 from the sale of each bottle of regularly priced Serj Eau de Parfum will continue to be donated to Poverello House.

Saturday, December 13, 2008

Sacred Glo

Sacred Glo Candles

"One earth -- we all share it. One product -- Sacred Glo™ lotion candles. Three uses -- toxin free candle, a warm massaging body oil or lotion, surrounded by a reusable drinking glass or an elegant bathroom accessory. No waste, nothing left behind except the glowing memory of candlelight, calm, and beautiful skin."

Is this cool or what? A candle that's a lotion in a glass jar that can be reused as a drinking vessel, small bud vase or toothbrush container?

Great gift ideas ~

Friday, December 12, 2008

Gift Sets Galore

Stress Less Gift Set (and more) from Sunrose Aromatics ~

"When life is moving too fast, relax with our Stress Less Gift Set.

Includes the following:
* Ceramic Diffuser with 2 tealights
(diffusers may vary according to inventory)
* 15 ml Happiness Diffuser Blend
* 15 ml Lovely Lavender Diffuser Blend
* Terra Cotta Stone with 5 ml Calming Diffuser Blend
* 2 oz Serenity Body Creme
* 2 oz Serenity Bath, Body or Massage Oil"

Nature's Gift Perfumer's Chypre Kit

For a while now, Marge Clark of Nature's Gift has been putting together perfumery kits. The following is Nature's Gift's latest addition to the kit family: The Perfumer's Chypre Kit ~

"For more information about the history of Chypre perfumes and options on creating your own chypre blends, please see our Chypres Defined page.

Nature's Gift is proud to present two different Chypre kits for your experimentation.

First, the BASIC Chypre kit contains fifteen ml (1/2 fl oz) bottles of our Bergamot FCF (for skin safety), Labdanum Absolute, Oakmoss Absolute and Sweet Patchouli, all in 10% dilutions for your mixing and matching, to discover your own personal Chypre accord. If available separately, the four Basic Chypre Oil dilutions would retail for $35.00. Save 20% by ordering the complete set for only $28.00

Our EXPANDED Chypre kit contains the above four oils, plus materials designed to allow you to experiment with the different "families" of Chypres:

(All of the following are in 2 ml bottles, and 10% dilutions for ease of use and to blend readily with the above Basic Chypre Oils.)

* Floral Chypres: Rose Absolute, Jasmine Grandiflora Absolute and Lavender CO2 extractions.
* Animalic Chypres: Angelica Root and Valerian Essential Oils
* Fresh Chypres: More Citrus - Green Mandarine and Blood Orange Oils
* Green/Herbal Chypres: Sweet Basil and Clary Sage
* Leather Chypres: Choya Loban and Tobacco Absolute
* Coniferous Chypres: Atlas Cedar Leaf and Maritime (Sea) Pine Needle Oils
* Woody Chypres: Himalayan Cedarwood and Sandalwood.

Now, obviously, there are many more oils that could fit in each category. All of our floral absolutes could be used in a Floral Chypre Perfume, all of our "Wood Oils" could enhance a Woody Chypre, etc. We want you to have the opportunity to play, to see what fits your taste, and then add to your library from there.

For ease in blending and experimenting, we are including:

* A dozen disposable pipettes (in addition to the mini-pipettes that come with each of our 2 ml oils.)
* A package of 100 Perfumers Scent Strips to experience each oil singly and in combination over time.
* Blending Bottles: 3 2 ml amber bottles, 3 5 ml Cobalt Bottles, and one 15 ml Cobalt bottle.

Separately, the complete "Explore the Chypres" kit would retail for $115.00 Save 20% by ordering the complete set for only $92.00"

Jump start your natural botanical perfumery education utilizing one of these great kit combinations.

And don't forget to play the 13th Reason guessing game in the previous post -- it's open until December the 19th (enter for your chance to win a handmade poppymint soap and a frankincense and rose body butter).

Wednesday, December 10, 2008

13th Reason

I don't know what the 13th Reason is -- there are lots of potentials; 13th Amendment of the US Constitution abolishing slavery; Friday the 13th, the day, not the movie; Apollo 13; Chapter 13? Who knows? Who even cares? They rock anyway.

A free bar of Poppymint soap and a mystery butter (ok, it's frankincense and rose absolute with some other stuff) to the first person who can tell me which of the three guys in this band is my son. The other two "guys" are girls, so they don't qualify. And it isn't Sponge Bob.

Sunday, December 07, 2008

Essence Evaluation Kits on Etsy

Start your natural perfumery studies through essence evaluations utilizing the kits provided here.

Poppymint Soap

Scrubby poppy seeds fill this gorgeous soap made with virgin olive oil, shea butter, organic cocoa butter and organic coconut oil scented with peppermint and spearmint essential oils. A seasonal favorite!

Order at The Scented Djinn Etsy Apothecary. Limited supply.

Saturday, December 06, 2008

New Le Parfumeur Rebelle Giveaway!

December's LPR Giveaway sponsor is Faerie Made Soaps (and perfumes).

Giveaway items include Faerie Made's lovely Winter Solstice Perfume ~ Playing on the theme of Amber and juniperberry comes our Winter Solstice limited edition perfume. The scent is soft like the season. Snow on the ground mutes world. Everything is soft, subtle, clear, cool. Winter.Neroli, lemon, blood orange and petitgrain tease the senses lightly. Amber resin and juniperberry essential oil are paired together with notes of sandalwood, patchouli and a touch of spicy clove coming out during the dry down. Soft, pretty. .25 oz

Ginger Grass and Silk Soap ~ This soap has ethically sourced raw silk and coconut milk added to our already luxurious soap. To top it off it is scented with an essential oil blend that includes lemongrass, ginger, patchouli, and a hint of vanilla. 4.5 oz

Enter at the link provided above.

Good luck!

Friday, December 05, 2008

Holiday Giveaway at Crushed Velvet and Roses

Two giveaways have been announced at Crushed Velvet & Roses ~ one for perfume, the other for art. Enter both here for your chance at some holiday cheer.

Thursday, December 04, 2008

LPR Holiday Sale ~ Mandrake Apothecary

Take 20% off all orders of $100 or more (free shipping at $75+ will still count!).

This sale is in effect until December 10th, midnight PST, but I cannot guarantee delivery by the Solstice, the start of Hanukkah, Christmas, or Kwanzaa, since USPS gets
overwhelmed this time of year.

Mandrake Apothecary.

LPR Holiday Sale ~ Soivohle ~ Liz Zorn Perfumer

Free Shipping plus a 10% discount on all orders thru December 18th

Wednesday, December 03, 2008

LPR Holiday Sale ~ Faerie Made

15% off all products to December 6th

LPR Holiday Sale ~ Nature's Gift

Avoid the crowds at the malls, shop online this year!

New Jewelry

Just in time for holiday giving, a selection of new Aromatherapy Jewelry by a talented new artist. Karen Bye, the talented glass worker who has made our amphoras for the past several years is no longer practicing her art, and we have searched long and hard for a new artist. (We have a TINY array of Karen's earlier work still available, mostly just one or two of each, so if you have had your eye on one, visit our Aromatherapy Jewelry page while they last.)

The following new lampwork amphoras all have 16" - 18" neck cords of black Greek leather, with sterling clasps. They are created from imported glass (mostly Italian) and kiln annealed for durability. They only *look* fragile! Each has a spiral shaped silver dauber, which makes them perfect wearble perfume bottles for our anointing oils or dilutions - anything that is skinsafe and ready to apply.

The pictures are representative, as individual works of art, each will vary slightly. All are delightful.

We are packaging each Amphora in a small decorative bag, and including a mini-pipette for adding your chosen oil or blend. More . . .

LPR Holiday Sale ~ Sunrose Aromatics

SunRose Aromatics is offering a
10% Discount to ALL LPR readers on ALL orders over $50.00 (this does not include shipping & handling)

Valid thru December 20, 2008. To qualify for the discount, read LPR and find the discount code here.

LPR Holiday Sale ~ Magickal Realism

Magickal Realism offers free shipping internationally
through January 15th.

Introducing the following sampler packs:

Men's sampler pack
Real Magic sampler pack
Shis-shis sampler pack
(including Book Dust, Sex and Politics, and a few others)

Magickal Realism

Monday, December 01, 2008

My Son Wears Angel

About the time I started seriously studying natural botanical perfumery, my now 20-something son started wearing mainstream perfume. Real perfume. Not cologne. Not body spray. Perfume. His first perfume experiment was with a sweet little confection called Candies. Why he ever chose to smell like a teenage girl on prom night, I’ll never know, but it might have something to do with sex appeal. His words, “Females dig it.” So we have this macho boy, District Champion in wrestling, fledgling football player, all-around bad boy, wearing Candies perfume to attract girls like bees to honey. And it worked. So well, in fact, he moved on from his first olfactory love to his second: DKNY’s Be Delicious.
He was delicious for two years, until he bored of smelling like fruit bowls, and found his third olfactory love, Prada. Surreptitiously lifted from his younger sister’s dressing table, Prada found a new home in my son’s locker. But he was forever on the hunt for something new. He never turned down a trip to Sephora, and never refused perfume samples that I gathered from various mainstream perfume houses. He found love again, for the fourth time, with Premiere Figuier Extrême from L’Artisan. He saved money for two months to buy his very first full bottle. Three point four ounces of scentastic bliss. The bottle didn’t last long as all his “girlfriends” fell in love with Mr. Figuier too, and generously doused themselves whenever they’d come by for a visit – he soon tired of smelling like everyone else.
One day, after sharing lunch at The Cheesecake Factory, the son and I decided to walk across the road to Sephora. The son is a big samples’ freak and asks for two or three every time he visits Sephora. We wandered around and then I noticed the trademark ice-blue, wonky star-shaped bottle with its shiny silver cap sitting on a high shelf. I remembered that my friend Kimberly loves Angel, so I decided to give it a shot. Yeah, I never tried Angel before. I’m not a lover of the overtly sweet, cotton candy, high floral gooeyness that I’d heard Angel was based upon. My son walked past me as I sprayed Angel onto a strip.
“What is that?”
“It’s Angel. You won’t like it. It’s too girlie even for you.”
He grabbed my hand, the one waving the scent strip soaked in Angel, and snatched the strip. He closed his eyes and drew the strip under his nose slowly. I started looking around to see if anyone was watching this embarrassing display, when he shouted, “Wow! I have to have this!”
He then grabbed the sample bottle and sprayed it on his wrists, waved his arms about, and began inhaling at his wrists in long, gulping sniffs.
“It smells magnificent,” he said, his eyes closed, wrist at his nose.
“Magnificent? What’s the matter with you? It’s way too girlie for you!” I said, trying to pull his arm down from his face.
“No, it’s not,” he said. “Smell it.” He extended his arm and brought his wrist up to my nose. I inhaled, fully expecting something gawd-awful sweet and sticky, and was pleasantly – no – astoundingly surprised to find that it smelled rather masculine. Yeah, the sugary sweetness was there, but so was something else, something dark and not-so-sweet. Something very male.
The son smiled at me and asked, “Samples?”

Sunday, November 30, 2008

Fantasy Honey

Fantasy Honey is a solid perfume made by one of my favorite perfumers, Littleflowers. It's an erotic blend of osmanthus, jasmine, linden and beeswax absolute. This isn't a sweet little confection of sticky fingered gooeyness that brings to mind honey combs and grandma's house at tea time. It's sexy. The osmanthus is gorgeous and dominates, though without the cistus and tobacco, it would just be black fig. Not that there's anything wrong with black fig. The overwhelming tone of this solid is boudoir boldness with a healthy dose of Kama Sutra honey dust. Sex-y!

I'm telling you, in the compact pictured above, it would be a gift anyone, man or woman, would be thrilled to receive.

Friday, November 28, 2008

Holiday Sale!

Le Parfumeur Rebelle's Holiday Sales'
page is filling up fast, but the sales won't last forever.

Come to LPR and peruse for holiday gifts from some of your favorite small businesses ~

Soivohle ~ Liz Zorn, Soivohle's perfumer, is offering free shipping plus 10% off all orders thru December 18th

Faerie Made ~ Tina Glen of Faerie Made is offering 15% off all orders thru December 6th

Nature's Gift ~ Marge Clark of Nature's Gift is offering 10% normally discounted products through the Thanksgiving weekend

Sunrose Aromatics ~ Rosanne at Sunrose is offering 10% off all orders over $50 to all Le Parfumeur Rebelle readers

Magickal Realism ~ Diana Rajchel of Magickal Realism is offering free shipping internationally from Thanksgiving thru January 15th

The Scented Djinn ~ Justine Crane of The Scented Djinn is offering 10% all orders thru December 5th

The list is growing daily, so check back at LPR for more holiday deals.


Sepia weeps. She laments.

Scents of powdery frail paper and resinous ink layer shy, sparkling lemons and yuzu, citrus fruit bowls overtaken by monk’s black-fingered writings.

Sepia is a perfume by Littleflowers. She evolves from thin veils of citrus over spices and leather, to dark resinous waxiness, and finishes with soft powdery sweet old paper and apothecary medicaments.

Do I like it? It's right up my olfactory alley. So yes, I do like it. Love it, in fact. It's precious and rare. Like old books written in dead languages.

Sepia ~ by Littleflowers.

Thursday, November 27, 2008

Happy Turkey (or Tofurkey) Day!

"Everything we have is a gift from God -- even our sorrows." Joseph Farah

The American Thanksgiving tradition for years has been a time of gluttony, the beginning of the feasting and festivities which continue on through New Year's Day. The average American gains five to ten pounds between the time from Thanksgiving (some start early and make Halloween the beginning of the eating frenzy) and New Year's.

But is that what Thanksgiving is really about? Eating until the l-triptophan, carbs and booze knock you out for two days? Or is it about something else? Like being thankful maybe?

Thankful that you had another year on earth to share with loved ones. Thankful your family made it through some really rough times and are now stronger than ever. Thankful for positive, though painful, change. Thankful for love. Thankful you can hold your sweet grand baby's hand and play in the fallen leaves with him. Thankful for all your blessings. Thankful for the talent which God has bestowed upon you. Thankful for grace and happiness (even if it lasts only a moment) and laughter. And at last, thankful for the bounty upon your tables.

Happy Thanksgiving.

Monday, November 24, 2008

Sunday, November 23, 2008

Le Parfumeur Rebelle Giveaway

Just a week left to enter the Le Parfumeur Rebelle monthly giveaway. November is being hosted by Mandrake Apothecary.

To enter simply follow the link above, leave your name and address, and indicate whether you want your name published if you are the winner, click the submit button and there you have it.

Saturday, November 22, 2008

Attack of the Narcissists

I've had several long conversations with many different people the past few weeks regarding recent personal and professional events that have occurred, and the word "narcissist" kept popping up. I know, this isn't a perfume-related post, but please bear with me.

The personal issues have been occupying my mind of late, putting the professional issues somewhere in a fog on the edge of my consciousness, in a safe, distant place where they can't hurt or hinder what's happening in my REAL life. What I mean by that is this blog, my professional perfuming persona, is only a fragment of who and what I am. It isn't the real me, or, at least, the whole me. And this, I believe, is true of most of those who blog. For others it is this blogging, Yahoo-ing, grouping pretend-self which they would have us believe is real. It is the persona they want all of us to believe is true and valid, the one they made up by creating a fantasy world created from lies and deceit, one of false importance and relevance. And shame on anyone who dares to stand on the edges of the lime light which the narcissist owns lest it somehow diminish their imagined importance and delusions of grandeur.

"One of the most glaring outward signs of malignant narcissism is the way narcissists malign others. They are constantly improving their own image at someone else's expense." This statement interests me greatly. It comes from Kathy Krajco's blog What Makes Narcissists Tick. Yes, another blog.

There's a lot of good, sound advice on her blog about how to distance oneself from what she calls "malignant narcissists", those who prey on people using their blogs or lists and groups as the vehicle to insidiously insert themselves into someone's life, and often, ultimately, attempt to destroy them publicly.

Perfumery Without Pretension

GC analysis is the topic of this installment of Le Parfumeur Rebelle's Perfumery Without Pretension by Diana Rajchel.

Friday, November 21, 2008

Laurie Stern Interview at Sniffapalooza Magazine

One of my most favorite botanical perfume personalities, Ms. Laurie Stern, has been interviewed at Sniffapalooza Magazine.

For insights into the joy and art of botanical perfumery, you must read this interview and the review by Tonie Minsal.

Sunday, November 16, 2008

And the Kaufman Goes to . .

Lisa who wrote "this is a lovely book. i am lucky that my local library has a copy i can borrow from time to time. thanks for this opportunity to take a chance. ~lisa"

Lisa, send me your full name and address at and the book will be mailed to you as soon as possible.


Saturday, November 15, 2008

Fundraiser for Littleflowers

I've know the proprietress of Littleflowers for a long time now. She's brilliant. And she's in need. If you've never tried any of Littleflowers' gorgeous natural skincare, do so now and help her through this trying time.

Try the lemon mint scrub or the spruce body butter -- luscious. She also features sweet citrusy cologne splashes that are refreshing, bracing and smell divine.

Monday, November 10, 2008

Interesting Stuff

I found this blog entry interesting.

This article seemed pretty interesting too.

This too seems like a pretty cool reference.

You may also find this one interesting as well.

So is this one.

This one from 1999 is pretty good too.

Nice one here.

You have to scroll all the way down to the bottom of the page to find this one.

As a person who suffers greatly from sinus infections and frequent temporary anosmia, I thought it would be helpful to explain why someone would use left/right nostril techniques to evaluate perfumery materials. It's also extensively used in wine evaluations and has been for years.

They're also just great references.

Wednesday, November 05, 2008

Mandrake Apothecary

Mandrake Apothecary is the November 2008 Le Parfumeur Rebelle giveaway sponsor.

Giveaway items are: A bottle of Thriae perfume, and a bottle of Hecate perfume.

"The bee is the most mentioned insect throughout mythology. She is nature's alchemist, creating a life-giving substance, of herself and flowers. Bees were seen as a bridge between the natural world and the underworld, in the ancient Near East and throughout the Aegean. They were carved on tombs, and Mycenaean tholos tombs even resemble beehives. Zeus was saved from his father Cronos by the nymph Melissa (name origin in Greek, "honey bee"), and in his gratitude he transformed her into a Queen Bee. Apollo's gift of prophecy came from a trio of pre-Hellenic bee-goddesses, the Thriae.

Beeswax absolute blends seamlessly with most florals, citrus fruits, and will add sunshine to the heart accord of a blend. Honey absolute tends to sweeten the heart and base of a blend, without making its presence overtly known or coloring a
blend significantly. Both of these add a glow to whatever they are blended with, and it is hard to not observe that as a mechanism of alchemy.

vanilla-infused biodynamic grain spirits
rooibos tea absolute
champaca flower absolute
beeswax and honey absolutes
carob absolute
carrot seed essential oil
jasmine sambac absolute
cassis concrete, diluted

Thriae brings the height of summer, and the hum of bees in the garden, into the darker days of the fading year. It is a light at the end of the tunnel."
Sara Philips, Mandrake Apothecary

"Hekate is not an Olympian deity in the Greek pantheon but rather a Chthonic deity, and originates in Anatolia. She was a goddess of childbirth and the wilderness in Thrace, but most of us know her as the goddess of witches and sorcery. Queen of the ghosts. Medea and Circe were priestesses of Hekate. She was also known as the guardian of thresholds and of the crossroads. Being a Chthonic deity, she is closely associated with the underworld and the earth, or rather the place beneath the earth.She predates the Greeks, and was written into the pantheon where it was easy to embroider her in via indigenous tradition and folk tales. She's an attendant at the birth of Zeus in one telling, for example, going so far as to hide the infant from Cronus with the other midwives. In other myths, her powers are a gift of Zeus.

Organic golden jojoba
blue lotus
amber spikenard
henna attar
clary sage
Turkish rose

Mystery, the ethereal realm, and deep ancient
places in the world. Ghostly and forbidden
knowledge. The oracle at Delphi breathed in
vapors from cracks and deep fissures in the
rocks, and this was formulated to create a
meditative state with essences of the ancient

Blue lotus breathes and whispers florals into a
woodsy and earthy heart of spikenard and sage
tempered with rose. The attar and the
frankincense are the incense smoldering in
the censer, while the dry dusty flowers and
sage waft into the atmosphere.

Hekate is the long cool midnight of winter, that
deep cave of the soul where many treasures
await and charm, if one is brave enough to
venture into the darkness."
Sara Philips, Mandrake Apothecary

Enter. This. Giveaway.

Obama Nation

I couldn't let this pass without commenting. How about that Mr. Obama, eh? Oh, Mr. President (-elect), that is.

Laugh or cry, you've just witnessed an historic event of enormous proportions. And for some of us (quite a lot of us, it appears), we can finally exhale.

God Bless the World.

Tuesday, November 04, 2008

Election Day

"T'was Halloween and the ghosts were out
And everywhere they'd go they'd shout
and though I covered my eyes I knew
they'd go away
But fear's the only thing I saw
Three days later was clear to all
That nothing is as scary as Election Day."
Norah Jones My Dear Country

Have to go vote. I'm nervous about this day. Very nervous. The weather is odd, windy and cold under a painfully clear blue San Joaquin Valley sky. I can smell wood smoke every so often, not something you usually smell down here on the valley floor. Most people don't have much reason to burn wood for warmth. Some days we're not allowed by law to use our fireplaces. I'm just hoping there won't be a line at the polling place because I don't do stinging windy cold very well.

What I'd love to be doing instead of what must be done is tincturing more aromatics. I currently have a gorgeous raw organic cacao bean tincture running through the zapper for its 20th hour. I'm using grain alcohol as the menstruum. It has a distinctive grain alcohol scent; not sweet at all. This tincture, at about hour 15, took on a distinctive fruity wine tone. It smelled like a triple folded organic grape alcohol. Then the alcohol burned off and left a remarkable dark chocolate essence. I'm going to get as much as I can out of this little tincture.

I'd also love to work on a winter perfume -- something warm, but not spicy; floral, but not intoxicating; enveloping, but not suffocating. Doesn't really say much, does it? I'll have to work on the vocab.

Just read Trygve's blog here -- man. Trippy.

Don't forget I'm running a book giveaway (see previous post) ~ William Kaufman's Perfume. The photos are fabulous.

Monday, November 03, 2008


I'm an avid book collector. I just love books. All kinds of books. And sometimes, my obsession with books gets a little out of control. For example, I have five (5) copies of William Kaufman's Perfume. I have one that I read and use for reference and enjoyment; one which is slated for deconstruction to harvest the gorgeous photographs for framing; and, um, three additional copies . . . for the fun of it?

So I'm giving one away. Just comment here, or at, and I will randomly select the winner from the comments around the 15th of November.

NowSmellThis posted a review of this book back in 2005 -- go have a read.

Friday, October 31, 2008

Last Chance to Get Your Scary On

It's the final day to enter your name in the Le Parfumeur Rebelle's October giveaway. Ms. Lisa Farrell of MoonaLisa fame is offering up a trick-or-treat bag of luscious natural skincare and perfumed goodies.

Monday, October 20, 2008

Class Begins October 25th

It will indeed be an exciting year. Nature's Nexus has created a year-long online perfumery course for aspiring natural botanical perfumers. The instruction for this pilot course is (or was) free. The class is full up! We had an overwhelming response to our offer, which was surprising and exciting considering the obstacles.

Though the course itself is free, the evaluation kits of 88 essences plus a packet of 100 scent strips is not; nor is the primer and essence kits of 20 blending primaries housed in a handmade, portable perfumer's organ. These are optional for the course. What is also free are the introduction packets which include a beautifully crafted essence chart.

The course begins with a fully comprehensive safety unit and glossary with references and links, and finishes with instruction on creating and standardizing tinctures and extracts, base building and composing and finishing a perfume.

Writing on this blog may again become scanty for the next year or so . . . or maybe not.

Thursday, October 16, 2008

Moonie in October

Just a week or so left to enter your name in the October Le Parfumeur Rebelle Giveaway. This month's giveaway items are fabulously scary-beautiful skincare.

Go get you some!

Wednesday, October 15, 2008

"I myself am strange and unusual . . . "

Ok. I sent the eau de parfum samplers out, and I had a little part of the booth at Intermountain set up for samples of the same parfums -- and the reactions thus far are mixed. I like that, actually. It means, in a way, that I achieved the goal -- not to create scents that smell like A) aromatherapy, or B) like everyone else's natural botanical stuff. I admit that Serj is closer to a "normal" eau de parfum than is Oshiba. Serj is fruity and slightly floral with underpinnings of earth and moss. Oshiba is -- Oshiba's just different. The inspiration for this perfume came from an accident of fate. I was evaluating materials and found the combination of hiba wood and osmanthus absolue intoxicating. Breathtaking, really. So while Serj was created using repeated trials, a la Carles, Oshiba was directed from outside myself, intuitively, until an odd balance of hiba, osmanthus, rose and labdanum (very little labdanum) was achieved.

Men more than women seem to enjoy these two scents. Serj opens with a blast of sweet, sugary fruitiness and mellows into twining florals to end in a powder patch of vetyver and patchoulis. Oshiba screams from the bottle with almost metallic rage, then settles quietly (as quietly as a kickboxer with ADHD) into figgy, floral, powdery cedarness, the rage still hovering to the end.

So yes, these two scents are strange and unusual, or out of the box, as some have indicated. But like all art, they are reflective of a time and space within this artist's life, which means they won't be around forever. I'm terrible with the forever stuff. Static situations kill me. I will keep a bottle of each for memories, then it's on to the next strange and unusual scent. Or maybe I'll keep it simple and only slightly more than ordinary -- or maybe not.

Tuesday, October 14, 2008

Soap's On

The Scented Djinn Apothecary at Etsy is now featuring handmade soap. Get them while they last as the next batches won't be available for another four weeks.

Jasmine Geranium, Patchouli Light, Anise, Holy Basil, Orange Vanilla Spice and Frankincense & Myrrh made in a base of virgin olive oil, organic coconut oil and organic cocoa butter or raw shea, scented with essential oils, floral waxes and infusions.

Monday, October 13, 2008

Harvest Arts & Peace Festival

It was so cold in Prather. Both days, Saturday and Sunday, I shivered and shook and couldn't wait for the festival to be done and over with. That's a first. The first day I came home frozen and wind burned, with almost $300 extra dollars in my pocket. The second day was a little warmer, and I came home less cold and only a bit richer. I knew it would be a bad year, and it was. Down by about $75 from last year. No hugely dramatic run-in with the Goat Lady. It's funny, I can't remember anybody's names at these things, except the owners and a couple of the employees. We all of us, me and the rest of the vendors, call each other by what we do or bring to the festival. There's the Purple Hat Guy, the Turtle Man, Bob the Honey Dude, I'm the official Soap Lady, there are the Quilt Girls, the Gourd Woman and the Ciabatta Babes, Tabuleh Chicks . . . well, you get the idea. The Goat Lady did make her early Sunday morning tour of the show and condescendingly clucked over my soaps, saying, "Nice, nice. Hmm." I find it fascinating that she even bothers, or that I don't race over to her booth and cluck and hum and snicker at her goat milk and lavender scented turd cakes. This woman doesn't even know what a stick blender is, for chris'sakes. I'm being unkind. I apologize.

Thursday, October 09, 2008

Optimism in the Pouring Rain

Someone once told me that good things happen to good people, and bad things happen to bad people. It's not true. Things just happen, and they happen to everyone. But you already knew that, right? This has been a week of personal trials -- it feels as if my family is melting into puddles -- and everything that's happened is beyond our control. Completely beyond, and the only things to be done are to pray, burn a little sage, and have faith.

I have my 'big show' this weekend. The Intermountain gig. I'm a little concerned that our country's economic woes will, inevitably, spill over into this little mecca of peace and tranquility. It's not been great the past few years at Intermountain in a financial aspect (I'm down about $25 - $50 each progressing year going on seven or eight years, even though the show brings in hundreds of shoppers), but the spiritual aspect is all there and growing exponentially. My enthusiasm for creating mass amounts of gorgeous soap waned at about batch four, around the time my Janus funds dropped nearly $1000 in the span of a moment. If you knew how long it took to earn that $1000 . . .

So, yes, I'm worried. About that and about the reopening of The Scented Djinn. And about the new class I'm tutoring at NNAPA. Frankly, I was surprised, and exceedingly pleased, to see how many people were interested in attending the course, even knowing they might have to shell out a bit of money for evaluation kits, essence kits and primers. Chemistry is currently my enemy and I'm studying like a mad woman everything I can about essential oil chemistry. It's interesting, enlightening and, sadly, demystifying. Chemistry. Hate it. That and math. Give me words. Words and meaning and spirituality and humanity and understanding and love. Give me those because right now I really need them.

Wednesday, October 08, 2008

Serj & Oshiba Samples Giveaway

Melis, Faerie Made, Roxana, Emily B. and Lisa, please send me your addresses to and I'll get your samples out ASAP.

The rest of those who entered, I'll be contacting you individually.

Thank you for the enthusiasm!

Monday, October 06, 2008

Busy Bee

I apologize to my regular readers for leaving you hanging this way. Posting small talk isn't my usual modus operandi but [insert sigh here] I've been very busy. And for a brief moment -- well, actually a few weeks -- I had thought to ditch the blog altogether. Along with a few other things. Instead, I've decided to simply extract myself from toxic situations and live more in my own reality.

The Scented Djinn is almost here. A few more touches and the site will be up and running. I'm not nearly as nervous as I am excited. There is a 'parfum' page, an 'eau de toilette' page, an 'eau de cologne' page, an 'eau de fraiche' page, an 'about' page, which is really quite interesting since I gave the job of describing me and who I am to someone else; and the usual privacy policy and contact pages, and then a link to the Etsy site where the soaps and butters and bath fizzies will be listed. It's very simple and scaled down. So very unlike my real life.

The perfume offerings at The Scented Djinn thus far are Serj, which I call an eau de parfum but which is much closer to an extrait or parfum, whose key notes include fir balsam, orange juice, hyacinth and ruh khus. The other (and there will be more as the year progresses) is a perfume called Oshiba, a blend of hiba, labdanum and osmanthus. I'm terrible at describing scents I create, so I'll leave that up to you. I'm giving away samples of Serj and Oshiba to the first ten people who either comment on this blog or write me privately at -- I believe in complete anonymity, so I won't be screeching your name from the rooftops as the one of the lucky winners -- unless you want me to :D

The perfume room is still in progress. I've decided to leave the carpet in and not pull it up, as I'd previously decided. I think it would be too cold and too hollow without carpet. But the painting, shelving, trim and fans will still be going in -- then I can invite you in when you visit and we can play mad alchemist for the day. But first, a new washing machine is in order . . .

New discoveries in the past year: big, lusty ultrasonics, hydrometers (well, actually, alcoholmeters), EC thingamabobs, fantastic synergies, and Charles Sell.

And the primer is being published right this minute.

Saturday, September 27, 2008


Halloween Sale at MoonaLisa's!

Order by September 30th to receive the scary goods by All Hallows Eve.

MoonaLisa's Supernatural Clean

Wednesday, September 24, 2008

Get Your Sniffa' On

Roxana Illuminated Perfumes is doing Sniffa' -- twice!

Read the details here.

Monday, August 25, 2008


Just a few days left to enter the August Le Parfumeur Rebelle giveaway!

This month features a bevy of organic natural skincare provided by Luscious Naturals, LLC.

Go get you some!

Season of the Witch

"~Season of the Witch Sale~

Hello and good to be back !

Life has changed a lot already with our lovely new baby!

But some things will never change ,

like my obsession with all things spooky!

I hope this finds you and yours happy and thriving.

Brightest Blessings- Moona

This is not the Halloween sale yet, more Halloween theme items will be added in September.

And this year , due to adjusting life with baby, Moona will be adding and continue replacing stock as we sell out of regular and Halloween products , now and thru November! So Halloween at MoonaLisa's will last three months!
~ Viva Halloween! ~

What's coming back?


Moona was unable to make many products for nine months for the safety of the little bun baking , but now that Minimoo is here and well, all your favorite products are back in stock and ready to go!

Sea Witch Bath Salts/Scrub

Sea Witch Orbs

Sea Witch Soap

Baby fat free Witches Butter !

Witches Butter Balls

Queen Bee Facial Soap

PoTiOn LoTioNs

Halloween Soaps are back !

Pumpkin Cheesecake /Caramel Pecan Pie

Carnival of Souls

Maniacal Mamie

Madame de Mal de Mort's

~House of Voodoo Wares~

Old and new spookiness

will be available in the Fall

Specials ~

* Buy any five bath bombs get one free!

* But any three soaps ( except the QUEEN BEE) get one FREE!

* From August 13th thru November 13th ,

All Sea Witch and Witches Butter products will be 13% off!

* Mention this add in the sellers notes and get a free Halloween gift!"

MoonaLisa ~ A Supernatural Clean

Moonie's Home Site

Thursday, August 21, 2008

Perfume Things

I've been away from the computer quite a lot these past few days, putting the final packaging touches on the first eau de parfum for TSD and diluting materials for trial studies.

The class I'm teaching is a week from now and I've got the primer for the class being worked on by a designer to make it more visually appealing since the content is very concise and dry. It's a primer. I'm just freaking out a little bit about the printing deadline . . .

All the materials necessary to complete the second eau de parfum for TSD are lined up and ready for blending -- I always get a little weird at this stage of the game. I need complete quiet in the house because once I start, I won't stop until the product is done, done and done. Breaking my concentration can be hazardous to the intruder's health. So I time my blending excursions for when the kids have made plans to go to a movie or hang out with friends ~ far, far away. School begins next week (yay!) so those quiet times will be more frequent. More formulating?

Saturday, August 16, 2008

Custom Eau de Toilette ~ Nine Essence

The Scented Djinn Apothecary at is offering custom eau de toilette formulations.

"Nine essence custom eau de toilette in an organic grain alcohol base.

.50 oz (approx. 15 ml) spray bottle (as shown)

The Scented Djinn will choose nine essences which best represent your preferences and blend them into a natural eau de toilette.

Choose from the categories listed below to begin your custom EdT~


Thursday, August 14, 2008

New Le Parfumeur Rebelle Giveaway!

This month's sponsor is Luscious Naturals, LLC, purveyor of luxury vegan skincare products.

Giveaway items include: Luxury Salt Butter Scrub, Chamomile~Aloe Toner, Pure Natural
Vegan Clay Masque, and Kaolin Complexion Super Luxe Vegan


Luscious Naturals, LLC

Wednesday, August 06, 2008

Revisiting Violette

I'm in the middle (or beginning, really) of a detox, so forgive me if these posts become -- well -- strange.

Worked a few hours yesterday on the mock up of violet. I'm trying to work out something resembling an eau de toilette with it. The extrait composition sticks for well over 24 hours, which is amazing to me considering the limited materials and dilutions being used, but not so amazing when considering that two of those materials are oakmoss and sandalwood. The drydown is only slightly woody, and very, very sweet/floral. I had my daughter sniff'a bit off my wrist. Her eyes lit up and she yelled, "Chowards!" That'd be Chowards' violet 'flavored' mints. I tested this revelation and found that the mock violet extrait bears a striking resemblance olfactorily to Chowards, except the mints are just a titch more fruity.

I might put a couple of drams of the finished EdT on the apothecary site. But that won't be for a few weeks yet.

Tuesday, August 05, 2008

Done, Done and Done!

Finally stopped my procrastinating and bottled up one of the limited edition perfumes to be presented on The Scented Djinn's new website in October. Still working on putting the other limited edition together, then blending away for the next project.

The class I'm teaching this year is almost upon me and finally -- finally! -- I think I've done all the revising and editing I can on the primer for the class. As beginning primer's go, it's not half bad. Now I have to get it printed up.

Received a batch of lavenders last week from Marcia over at Samara Botane -- lovely! The white lavender concrete speaks to me. I see it blending beautifully with spruce and patchouli absolutes, and a teeny little bit of violet leaf --and a tinier little bit of blue lotus-- to top it off. Marcia's tobacco concrete is probably one of the nicest tobaccos I've ever smelled ~ sweet, dry and earthy with a slight green undertone.

Friday, August 01, 2008


The winner of the Le Parfumeur Rebelle July 2008 Giveaway is ~ (drum roll, please) ~ Ruth Moore!

Ruth, you've been sent a private email from the LPR mailbox. Watch out for it.

Wednesday, July 30, 2008

Tomorrow Is the Last Day

The last day to enter the Le Parfumeur Rebelle monthly giveaway, that is. And to post your fiscal year tax forms and payments, but we won't get into that.

Le Parfumeur Rebelle's July 2008 giveaway includes a full quarter ounce size bottle of the yet-to-be-released "Serj" eau de parfum (more like an extrait, really) from The Scented Djinn, two LPR t-shirts, a four-ounce bottle of Rose Geranium Toilette Powder from The Scented Djinn, and a few other little goodies.

One of the best things about entering the Le Parfumeur Rebelle monthly giveaway is that you can do it anonymously ~ we just won't publish your name as a winner. No one but the LPR editor needs to know you're a freebies tart.



Tuesday, July 29, 2008

Don't Think This Won't Affect You!

Please go sign the petition to stop this draft from becoming law.

This will affect more than just the small indie skin care, perfume and soap companies ~ it will affect YOU, the consumer. And it will affect shipping companies, suppliers, growers and many more supportive businesses.

Thursday, July 24, 2008

Casting a Critical Eye

Now that I've got the ball rolling ~ the scented ball, that is ~ it's time to start casting reviewers.


I've been a reviewer of both natural perfumes and natural skincare. I've given mediocre reviews to skincare that I felt was, well, mediocre, and glowing reviews to those products which made me quite happy.

I've sniffed the perfumes of the most noted and acclaimed natural perfumers in the world ~ some left me wondering what all the fuss was about, while others inspired me to work harder at my craft.

Now that it's getting closer to my turn in line, I have to be honest and say that I am terrified.

Saturday, July 19, 2008


Most natural perfumers go through this phase ~ or revisit it often. The phase of recreating bouquets, perfume formulations that imitate rare or exotic essences such as violet, jonquil, narcissus, lilac, lily of the valley, ivy, among others.

Experimenting with formulations that imitate these essences has been something I've always loved doing. With all the new absolutes and essential oils on the market, it's a bit easier to work out the chemistry and come up with a compound that more closely resembles the 'real deal', or, at the very least, something really lush and gorgeous that we think smells like the real deal.

I've been working on two of these bouquets for ages. A jonquil and a violet. With a bit of research I've managed to find some missing links which round out these formulations.

Jonquil, or narcissus jonquilla, is a very rare essence. According to Arctander, the scent is a "heavy, honey-like, deep-sweet floral" that has "a strong green undertone and a somewhat bitter, very tenacious dry out". Arctander also compares its scent to that of tuberose and longoza, with a little resemblance to the scent of hyacinth. He states that because of its rarity it is often adulterated with ylang-ylang, Siam benzoin, helichrysum, vanilla, longoza and narcissus, as well as several synthetic molecules. So. It stands to reason that if one were to imitate this scent, they would use what is/was used to adulterate it. Right? And combine it with those elements which were used in the 'old days', before perfumers were chemists, to imitate it. Typically, from the old books, jonquil bouquets require sandalwood, jasmine, orange blossom, tuberose and vanilla.

Tuberose has always been a bug in my bonnet. I just don't think it smells pretty, or even floral, most of the time. Ok. All of the time. Let's just say I haven't met a tuberose I like.

Violet is a dream. I have a small bottle of violet tincture which has a faint sweet, fresh, floral scent. Very hard to describe. Soft, powdery, woody-floral? There is some element of the leaf in the scent of this tincture, but not much. A mock-up of violet might include violet leaf, bitter almond, cassie, orris, tuberose (ew), tonka. I fiddled with it a bit and added a drop of boronia and a few other essences which I though resembled the tincture. It's still a work in progress (I think I'm on the 120th mod for violet since this obsession began some five years ago).

Basically, building bouquets, though hard work, is also educational and a whole lot of fun.

Thursday, July 17, 2008

And the Winners Are . . .

Lisa and Felicia!

Please email me at ~ I need your addresses to send your 1/2 oz spritz bottle of Boronia Eau de Cologne.

I'd like to thank everyone who entered.

Wednesday, July 16, 2008

Boronia Low Down

Since putting the Boronia EdC up on the Etsy site, I've been fielding questions about boronia ~ what does it smell like? Where does it come from? Does it really cost a fortune?

Boronia megastigma, the variety used to make boronia absolute, is a plant which grows wild in parts of Australia. It is part of the citrus family. The flower's two main aroma compounds are beta ionone and dodecyl acetate. Boronia is used as flavoring in fruit compounds. (Source: Boronia Megastigma, Wikipedia). According to Arctander, boronia is one of the only (if not the only) flowers which contain ionones; mostly beta ionones with just a little alpha ionone. Alpha ionones are characterized by a raspberry- and violet-like essence. Beta ionones are characterized by a dry, woody, violet-like essence. (Source: Arctander, IFF, Leffingwell). According the The Good Scents Company, dodecyl acetate smells like clean laundry.

So basically what you're going to smell with boronia are raspberries, violets, some dry woodiness, and the wash.

To me, boronia has a fresh, open, wild scent (I'm attributing this description to the 'clean wash' essence). It smells like this wonderful bottle of merlot that was gifted me one year for Christmas ~ it was chock full of berry richness and this lovely violet/orris undertone. Unfortunately, I don't remember the vintner of that merlot. I do remember that while I was diluting the boronia absolute, my mouth was watering and I was thinking about that bottle of merlot!

Boronia runs over $400 an ounce. When you can find it.

Tuesday, July 15, 2008

Halfway Mark

You still have half the month of July to enter the Le Parfumeur Rebelle monthly giveaway.

This month's giveaway features a yet-to-be-released 1/4 oz bottle of Serj Eau de Parfum by The Scented Djinn, two LPR t-shirts, dusting powder and a few other little surprises.

Go enter!

Sunday, July 13, 2008

Feelin' Hot, Hot, Hot!

Taking a cue from my friend "N" of Littleflowers fame ~ a giveaway.

I'm giving away two half-ounce spritz bottles of *Boronia Eau de Cologne fait par moi (one each to two lucky participants). This scent features classic EdC notes of citrus and neroli with a boronia twist.

The little spritz bottle is perfect for a quick shot when things get hot.

To enter the giveaway, simply leave a comment in the comments section and check back here after the deadline to see if you've won. We'll handle the particulars then.

Deadline: July 16th, Wednesday.

*organic grain alcohol, distilled water, orange flower tincture, bergamot,lemon essence, neroli, lavandin, rosemary, vanilla tincture, boronia, yuzu, oregano tincture, orris butter

Thursday, July 10, 2008

It is so flippin' hot. I won't tell you how hot because then you'll feel hot and we'll both be miserable.

The stink balls, aka dogs, are being kept in the house because of the heat. We have Lily the Labradoodle and Sunny the Bouncing Yellow Ball of Pomerania. They get washed and groomed regularly, but they manage to smell like pickled pig toots only a day or two after their baths. I keep telling the kids there's a stink rock in the backyard that they need to find and bury so the dogs will stop rubbing on it.

And I'm tired.

Stinky dogs, heat from Hades and exhaustion. Life. Ain't it grand?

Here I stand the goddess of desire,
Set men on fire,
I have this power.

Morning noon and night
It’s dwink and dancing,
Some quick womancing,
And then a shower!

Stage door johnnies always suwound me,
They always hound me
With one wequest.

Who could satisfy their lustful habit?
I’m not a wabbit!
I need some weeeessst ~

I’m tired . . .

Sung by Madeline Kahn from the movie Blazing Saddles.


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