Sunday, February 28, 2010

Winner of Hyacinth Giveaway!

Is Felicia of Montreal, Canada ~ please email me at with your address so I can send this bottle off to you.

Thank you to everyone who entered. If anyone is interested in purchasing small bottles of this hyacinth evulsion, please refer to The Scented Djinn Etsy Apothecary.

Friday, February 26, 2010


Today I will be putting rosemary in the ultrasonic to make a big batch of rosemary evulsion. In 2008, I planted rosemary at the farm and this year it's just gotten crazy huge. So, though it may be off season for harvesting, I'm tipping the rosemary (taking the new green ends), and cutting a few of the older, branchier parts, now. While I am able to. The next few days' posts will be comprised of that endeavor. At some point I'd like to distill some of this rosemary, but I haven't reached that point yet :)

Monday, February 22, 2010

Hyacinth Project Cut Short & a Giveaway

I had to cut the hyacinth project short for a couple of reasons; one being the short selling season (nobody in town is selling them anymore), and two, after two batches of blossoms which totaled 669 grams, into 300 grams of organic grain alcohol, the evulsion was getting weird -- viscous, syrupy, dense, dark, and super fragrant. So during the final filtration, I added 100 mls of organic grain alcohol (100 grams had been lost to the blossoms) to bring it to a total of approximately 300 grams and the results are amazing. This is a picture of a one ounce square corked bottle with light in the background illuminating the evulsion a deep magenta.

This ultrasonic business really works.

So, on to the next bit of this post ~ a giveaway! See that bottle? It's yours if I draw your name from a list of people who comment this post. An ounce of fresh hyacinth evulsion.

Saturday, February 20, 2010

Vintage Finds

Yesterday, I had the rare pleasure of spending time with my mother and my cousin. They're both close in age, my cousin being about six years younger than my mom, and they live together. Weird set-up, I know, but they've been best friends since childhood, so it stands to reason when life changed around them, they clung to each other for support. At any rate, we went to lunch, and my cousin and I laughed as my mother's light-on-the-curry chicken started to do its heated curry thing, and she smothered it with runny yogurt, complaining the whole time how hot it was, but eating every bite, nonetheless. Then it was off to Old Town to do some rummaging through second-hand and antiques stores. Where I found some pretty amazing stuff.

Thursday, February 18, 2010

More on Hyacinth

This second round went a little differently from the first. The first batch paled out pretty quickly. I evulsed for 5 hours, then let the blossoms soak in the alcohol for two days before straining it off for another go 'round; the second batch has evulsed for 5 hours and I'm going to strain it and put in another 300-380 grams of blossoms into the now 200 or so grams of alcohol. This second batch is holding its color. And has such a strange scent; smells like hyacinth, but also has this creamy, nutty smell, a titch of blue lotus in there, and really green. And the evulsion itself is a dark purple color. Amazing. I don't know how much more this alcohol can take, but I'm going to go one more round, maybe two, before I finish it up.

Monday, February 15, 2010

Then and Now

Filtered the first evulsion of hyacinth blossoms. The filter in the first picture shows a pretty accurate color shot of the actual hyacinth blossoms themselves. What the first filter photo doesn't show is the lovely darkening ring of indigo staining the filter as it dries. The second filter photo shows it better. The final picture is of a fresh evulsion 1x around on the right, and a two-year-old 3x tincture of hyacinth blossoms on the left. Arctander wrote that hyacinth is "a reddish-brown or dark brown to greenish-brown, viscous liquid, and it has an intensely sweet, green-floral, but somewhat sharp and at first unpleasant odor". Wild, eh?

Sunday, February 14, 2010

Phase Two of the Hya Project

At phase two of the hyacinth evulsion project, and things are going well. The first ten flowering heads took 5 hours to evulse down into pale blue, limp, lifeless bits of formerly vibrant hyacinth blossoms. This next ten are going into the same alcohol the first went through, then, sometime during the week, I'll be adding ten more . . . it's a fun project and seems to be moving along at lightning speed.

Wednesday, February 10, 2010

CPL Aromas Fragrance Project

I don't normally do this kind of thing, announce something from Basenotes or whathaveyou, but I feel I must as this is very exciting for me . . .

One of my students, Dimitrios, submitted a brief to the Basenotes/CPL Aromas Fragrance Project back in December and out of the sixty-some-odd number of briefs submitted, Dimi's was one of three chosen to be made into a perfume.

Congratulations Dimi!

Monday, February 08, 2010

The Power of Dooky

Okay, the photo here is NOT dooky but that lumpy dooky-looking labdanum I got a few months back, but it helps to illustrate the point of the post.

For days now I've been picking up the scent of, well, pooh. Wasn't the litter box, wasn't my shoes or the slips or the Uggs -- I just couldn't figure out why every so often I'd get this weird waft of doo-doo while sitting at the new computer desk. So I went on a hunt -- a poop hunt -- and found tucked under the sewing box next to the printer a pair of my son's "playin' shoes" with a minuscule trace of something he stepped in trapped in the tread. I mean, it was like dust it was so small, but it threw off a stench that my nose grabbed up nearly every time I sat at the computer to work. The shoes were hastily flung onto the porch for an outdoor scrubbing.

It really brought home the power of dooky that even in its tiniest measure it packs an olfactory wallop that'll make you tear your house apart to find it. And it reminded me that some NBP'ers use civet, the King of Crap Smells, in their perfumes, in ALL their perfumes, to stretch the skin time and to deepen the scent. Civet paste isn't pooh, per se, but it adds quite a bit of the pooh punch to the cat's -- ugh -- real pooh. Personally, I find it offensive. And I can pretty much pick it out of a perfume in its dry down.

Of course, I'm also the girl who likes hyracium and horse chestnut evulsions.


We're getting there. The photo on the bottom is better, not as blurry as the photo on the top (wrong camera setting), but you get the idea. This is about 1/3rd of the studio. Two thirds left to go, but really, half of that is just open space for the moment. There are two big shelving units and a short fold-out table left to clean up. Oh, and the top of that cabinet you see there, wedged between the vintage hutch and the wardrobe. You gotta put this stuff somewhere whilst you're digging . . .

There's enough room in here now to play beer pong, or so I've been told.

Sunday, February 07, 2010



I only had a handful of these lovely Chanel style Brosse bottles from France. Most of them were given away as gifts with custom perfume inside. The last couple of bottles managed to get filled with Oshiba and Serj eaux de parfum and placed on Etsy as an incentive to buy beautifully packaged perfume, in bottles that are meant to be kept a lifetime, at a price that places them at the lower end of the Natural Botanical Perfume pricing scale, and just in time for Valentines (run on sentence with a steep sales pitch included). These little guys, about 8-9 mls each, are simply elegant. I have other Brosse bottles, half a dozen, that I'm saving up for the next big parfum launch -- when, I don't know. But the first 6 out of the gate are going to be offered in the other French flacons, and are more appropriate for the whole look and feel of The Scented Djinn. Getting these bottles is difficult. There are only a few people who have the opportunity to purchase in amounts less than the required 10,000 minimum, but a number of beautifully designed Brosse bottles in numbers less than 10,000 have fallen into their hands and they're more than happy to distribute them to a favored few. Most successful Natural Botanical Perfumers WON'T share their bottle suppliers, especially if they've managed to find something no one else is using. That's ok. Everyone is entitled to their trade secrets.

Friday, February 05, 2010

Because of my kids . . .

. . . I once paid $300 for a tampon.

Because of my kids, my ex was able to use the word "frayed" in a creative way:
School "Mr. ******, your son's pants are frayed and frayed pants are out of dress code."
The Ex. "Well, what're his pants "frayed" of? Gettin' hemmed?"

Because of my kids, I learned that weed is NOT dope, but dope is sh*t, and sh*t is whack.

Because of my kids, the entire neighborhood thinks I'm running a meth lab in my perfume studio.


I really don't like that word because it usually means someone gets to lose a job, but that's not the case here. I've cut off service to my website, I still own the domain name, but I don't have a website anymore. It wasn't working out the way I wanted it to -- I didn't like how it looked, how it functioned, and I got crap support from my web hosting company, so I trash canned it. I'm all about Etsy right now. And it's working pretty well. I did have a NBP'er tell me once that I'd never "make it" with mainstream customers if all I had was Etsy as an outlet. I guess I don't care. There's nothing mainstream about me, so . . .

I will rebuild the site later, when I can get better support and a real site builder on board. 'Til then, order my stuff on Etsy, yeah?

Tuesday, February 02, 2010

Natural Perfume Academy Online Course

"Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?"
"That's depends a good deal on where you want to get to."...
(Alice in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll, 1865)

The Natural Perfume Academy presents a year-long excursion into the magical world of the creation of Natural Botanical Perfumes, with tutor/instructor, Justine Crane.

Your tuition cost provides you with year-long instruction in Natural Botanical Perfumery, with tutor/instructor and student mentor support ~

A 55+ essence evaluation kit~

Comprehensive study guide/work book with additional evaluation work sheets, and trial work sheets ~

A formulation kit of 20 primary perfume essences (to complete course assignments)~

An online academy with 24-hour access~

Natural Perfume Academy Admissions Committee reviews all submitted applications. Information supplied is treated with utmost confidentially.

A refundable application fee of $40 USD is required to begin the application process (the application fee will be included with the entire course cost if your application is accepted).

Course cost: $950 USD. A non-refundable deposit of $225 USD is required after your application is accepted, and the remainder due April 20th, 2010. Course begins May 24th, 2010..

Space is limited to 20 students.

Course Description ~

Antiquarian Perfumery/Natural Botanical Perfumery is a non-accredited course, and no prerequisites are required except a passion and desire to learn Natural Botanical Perfumery from the ground up. This course is recommended for those who desire to begin a career in NBP, or those who wish to broaden their educational horizons.

Includes information and instruction in:

A Brief History of Perfume, Spirit & Filth
Popular Historic Perfumery Ingredients
Evolution of Perfume Culture
Endangered Species Used in Perfumery
Storage & Shelf-Life of Raw Materials
Chemical Constituents of Essential Oils
Glossary of Terminology
Perfumers Studio ~ Beginning Perfumers Tools
The Perfumers Palette
Notes, Accords & Chords
Evaluating Raw Materials
Supplemental Scent Vocabulary
Continued Olfactory Training (tests)
Advanced Perfumers Tools & Techniques
Tinctures, Evulsions, Dilutions, Scales,
Oil-Based & Solid Perfume Making Techniques
Soap, Balms, Butters, Massage & Bath
Creating Perfume
Vertical/Horizontal Trial Studies
Intuitive Perfumery Formulation
Base Compound Formulation
Building a Floral Base, Amber Base,
Chypre Base, etc.
Creating Perfume on Paper
Advanced Composition Techniques
Sacrificial Perfume Materials
EdT’s, EdC’s, EdF’s, Aftershaves
“Fining” or Clarifying Finished Compositions
Coffee Filters vs. Laboratory/Winemaking Filters
Finishing the Composition
Creating Custom Perfumes
Following a Brief
Other Methods of Composition
Suggested Raw Materials

With full Sources, Bibliography, Website Links, Recommended Reading Lists, Sourcing Raw Materials & Suppliers Links, Worldwide Suppliers, Online Educational Sites, Groups, Research & References, Biopiracy Links, Brick & Mortar Shops, Quizzes and Answer Keys, Essence Evaluation Worksheets, Perfume Trial Worksheets, Assignments, Tutor/Instructor Support, Mentor Support and more.


Monday, February 01, 2010


Kaufman Giveaway Winner!

~*~*~*~*Is Waft by Carol!~*~*~*~*

Carol, please contact me via email at -- I need your street address to mail the Kaufman book.



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