Monday, March 29, 2010

Points On Perfumes


"Who Will Buy My Sweet Lavender?!"


Rose in Russian


Saturday, March 27, 2010

Birth of a Perfume Circa 1967


Perfume Making Circa 1948

Thanks Shelley!


Friday, March 26, 2010

NEW Isolates Unit at NNAPA

We have a new unit in the year long course starting in May.
Shelley Waddington is going to teach about Isolates.

The use of natural isolates is a new cutting edge trend in natural perfumery.
This course is designed to allow the perfume student to take advantage of this new trend by providing a basic understanding of what an isolate is, how it is produced, and how to incorporate isolates into their own perfume compositions. The student will also receive a comprehensive bibliography for personal reference.

Upon completion of this unit, the student will have a basic understanding of natural isolates and will be ready to begin blending using these fragrance materials.

A kit of natural isolates will be available at the store and is highly recommended for the course.

Shelly will preparing small kits for the course that will be sold in the NNAPA in-house store.

About Shelley Waddington

Shelley Waddington is the President of Beau Soleil, LLC, and the Chief Perfumer for The Carmel Perfumery, located in Carmel-By-the-Sea, CA.

A native of Carmel, her knowledge of perfume chemistry and composition, ethnobotanicals, teaching, writing, business development and sales provide affordable international access to the fragrances, fragrance-memories, and historical fragrances of Carmel-by-the-Sea.

Her current prêt-à-porter fragrances can be viewed at Ms. Waddington is available for consultation and design of bespoke fragrances for individuals, groups, events, and intentions.

Beau Soleil, LLC and Carmel Village Perfumes use only bio-ethical fragrance materials.

Shelley Waddington’s Specialties:

Composer of interpretive perfumes inspired and informed by nature and the humanities from an existential-phenomenological perspective, including consideration to the relationship between a work of art and the process by which it was made.

Shelley Waddington’s Experience

  • Chief Perfumer

    Carmel Village Perfumes

    (Cosmetics industry)

    July 2008 — Present (1 year 9 months)

  • President

    Beau Soleil, LLC

    (Cosmetics industry)

    February 2001 — Present (9 years 2 months)

    Artisan perfumer

Shelley Waddington’s Education

  • MA, Duquesne University

    MA , Existential Phenomenological Psychology , 1980 — 1981

  • University of California, Santa Cruz

    BA , Psychology , 1978 — 1980

  • Carmel High School

    1960 — 1964

  • Sunset School, Carmel, CA

    1958 — 1960

  • Bay School, Carmel CA

    1955 — 1956

  • Adult Teaching Credential, State of California

  • Certificate d'Eleve, Galimard

    Certificate , Perfume

Places are filling up fast and I would encourage all prospective students to contact me at this email address: as a matter of urgency to secure your place in the upcoming class. Note: if you have already been emailed with confirmation of a place in the class then there is no need to email.


The Aroma Connection

Thursday, March 25, 2010


I've been messing around a bit with co-distillations to obtain special hydrosols, and I'm gearing up to collect the materials to co-distill for essential oil (lemon flower, lemon leaf and lemon fruit co-distillation). There's just something about co-distilling that's a little more exciting than creating single distillates. It's like Forrest Gump's box of chocolates: You never know what you're gonna get.

Who could have imagined that a co-distillation of rose buds, sandalwood, orris root, violet flower, frankincense resin, acacia flower, ambrette seeds, palo santo wood, and henna powder would result in a crisp, spicy (like cinnamon), slightly woody, and vanilla-balsamic hydrosol? Or that as this hydrosol dries, it becomes more tolu-like and deepens in scent? It's meditative, this scent. Happy. And a little bit magical.

Another mad alchemist/perfumer I know (Nathaniel) has made Eau de Melisse Carmes, aka Carmelite Water by co-distillation. He commented to me that it was an eye-opening experience. I tend to agree that the entire co-distilling concept is eye-opening. The way in which the raw materials blend and marry is entirely different than how they would react if, say, one were to blend the essential oils together in a bottle. There's a synergy to co-distillation.

I have a bit more to learn about distillation in general, but I think I'm beginning to get the hang of it. I haven't ruined a batch yet. And there have been two really spectacular oils achieved through my bumbling -- a bright, cheery frankincense, and a sweet, lemonade-y lemon oil.

I recently purchased a copy of "The Practical Distiller", a reprint of a book published in 1809 (yeah, 1809), but it's mostly about distilling whiskey, gin, brandy and "spirits". I'm interested in the section that discusses how to conduct and improve the practical aspects of distillation.

So maybe one of these days I will somehow manage to blow up the kitchen . . .

Tuesday, March 23, 2010


This time of year has always been magical for me -- everything just opens up and spreads itself out; trees, green blooming fields, animals (in heat, usually), edibles. It inspires one to do the same (not the going into heat part), to kind of wake up and stretch, "soakin'", as my Texas raised step-daughter says. It's time for soaking, opening up, letting the good stuff in, getting warm.

Working on the course work book, reading and doing quite a lot of research has damn near worn me out mentally. So today I'm soakin'. Going to journal about the heart of that poison in beauty perfume, going to make the hyacinth evulsion the beating heart of the perfume, with the arteries and vessels made up of roses and jasmines and lotus . . . maybe a few spider veins of cananga and butter and black currant. The key here is the fusion -- without the fusion, it'll just smell like mud.

Almost done with Alec* Lawless' book, Artisan Perfumery or Being Led by the Nose. It's pretty good. Very concise and to the point; funny in some places. Clearly written by a man with no time for pretty prose and fooling around. I like that. A better teaching tool than some other more poetic perfume books I've read. This one is perfect for a beginning student or hobbyist. It'll definitely get them going down the right path, sans the blathering self-absorbed bullsh*t.

*I should look a little closer when I'm reading -- I initially wrote "Alex" instead of "Alec" -- sorry Mr. Lawless!

Sunday, March 21, 2010

NNAPA / Natural Perfume Academy Testimonials

"From one lonely natural botanical perfumery novice/student to another ~ are you lonely and sad for not being able to share your burgeoning obsession with your beloved and friends because they just don't understand? Do you pray to the Goddess of ATS [All Things Smelly] for lively conversation and passionate banter amongst like minded perfumery folk? Do you wish for a friendly forum where you can learn learn learn and ask those dreaded newbie questions [without fear of retribution] in the safe and very capable hands of a highly skilled and knowledgeable teacher?

Once upon a time I was that lonely NBP novice perfumer, desperate for friends of similar ilk and a place where I could talk about perfumery, ask silly questions, feel loved and appreciated and learn learn learn! smile Within the Natural Perfume Academy I found this all [and more!]. The course is set up to be interactive, providing a vast and comprehensive introduction to natural botanical perfumery. I would highly recommend this course to anyone who would like to make something more of their passion. As a student I've loved the interaction I've had with the other students, the excitement of successes and discoveries, the sadness of the 'back to the drawing boards', and the learning, guidance, support and wisdom of our fabulous teacher. I just don't want it to end!!''
Holly Simpson

"Antiquarian Perfumery is a terrific course with a teacher whose first preoccupation is to make you feel at home.
I read a lot about Natural Perfumery, have books and everything, but the practice and discussions and forums and chats really make up a dorsal spine to your abilities, give you more sense of what to do and guide your choices to make a good composition.
The rest is your natural talent, your brain, your nose, your taste.
The course gives balance and teaches your first steps, letting you free to walk alone when you are secure. And the best of all: you make good friends.
Thank you Justine and Ruth to start a new line of course on Perfumery that is friendly, technical and intelligent at the same time."

"Being part of the Natural Perfume Academy has proven to be a positive step in my natural botanical perfumery studies. When I started the course I was so happy to join others who have the same passion for NBP as I did. Although we each had varying levels of knowledge of this art one thing I can appreciate about the course is that all instructions were clear & understandable. You didn't feel like you were so far behind other students that you'd never catch up. Or that the course was so easy that it was a waste of your time. That happy medium had been met! And no student came in with a "me" attitude. Everyone has been very helpful and willing to share ideas, suggestions, resources and "new to us" discoveries. The assignments are challenging and each student has been very encouraging every step of the way. And with the guidance of our very knowledgeable teacher, who practices what she teaches, you just feel like you're in the right place to learn."
Michigan, USA

"As a student of the NNAPA, I have managed to turn my passion for perfumes into something so much more. The course has opened my eyes to every aspect of natural botanical perfumery that I could possibly have hoped for. Being armed with this greater knowledge not only allows me to grasp a better understanding of the processes behind creating a new perfume; but also helps me understand those scents that already exist.
With a lot of valuable direction and encouragement from the NNAPA staff and other students, this course has given me a platform to realising my ultimate dream of producing marketable perfumes. I feel anyone who is resolute to study hard, share ideas, and has a genuine passion for perfume would fully benefit from this course."
Dimitri Dimitriadis

NNAPA / Natural Perfume Academy

Tuesday, March 16, 2010

House of Gabler Rogaux

A few years back I became the lucky "winner" of this full coffrett of perfume samples from the House of Gabler Rogaux. Since then I've been attempting, albeit not terribly hard, to find more information on this perfume house. Last night I got a little closer. This entire coffrett, and perhaps the entire perfume house, came and went in 1940. What's pictured here is a sample box and every sample in it has some perfume left, each one smelling different than the next, but all carrying this weird aldehydic muskiness. The box itself is in excellent condition and each bottle is seated and glued into a depression in the lovely golden yellow velvet lined floor. I paid very little for this coffrett, somewhere in the neighborhood of $25 maybe? But I'd like to know more about it. About the house that created it, about the perfumes, not that there's anything particularly extraordinary about them. I just want to know what the heck I have here!

There are 12 bottles in the coffrett, and their names are Apple Blossom Fragrance, Chypre, Dream Bouquet (which is actually quite nice), Gardenia Fragrance, Gypsy Myth, Heather, Naughty, Orange Blossom Fragrance (also quite nice), Royal Street, Sandalwood Fragrance, Spice and Will-o-the-Wisp.

So, anybody know anything about them?

Friday, March 12, 2010


Years back, before I got an ultrasonic, I tinctured. Like a fiend. I tinctured valerian root, aloeswood chips, sandalwood shavings, coconut, dried lemon peel, olive leaves, figs, sugar, dirt, long pepper, white pepper, boysenberries, saffron, oregano, lawn clippings, honeysuckle, jasmine, rose leaf, local oakmoss, rose petals, lemon leaves, animal poop, cheese . . . there really wasn't much I wouldn't try to tincture. But my very favorite botanical to tincture was, and still is, tea. I have tinctures and evulsions of Earl Grey, gunpowder green, China green yunnan (jade supreme), China jasmine (da zhang select), China green (chun mee dao ming), China black (flowery orange pekoe), season's pick green (gen-mai cha), China green tea (chun mee), Sungma Estate 2nd Fl. (darjeeling), China keemun (dao ming), and Banaspaty Estate (assam). Suffice it to say, tea is one of my favorite things -- to drink, to tincture or evulse, to use in perfume. So diverse, yet retaining all that rich, earthy tea-ness. My favorite of all of these is my gunpowder green -- it's turned to resin; rich, oozy, dark green tobacco-like scent with faint notes of sweet fruit, something like cactus pear, dominated by notes of wet grass, powdered henna, and damp earth. It's just really special.

Poison in Beauty

I've been working on a brief for a perfume which evokes feelings of beauty and despair; a sort of dark gorgeousness that is both alluring and repulsive. I know, it sounds strange, but it works. A month or so back a student of NNAPA, Dimi, submitted a brief to Basenotes and it was one of three chosen by CPL Aromas for creation. Mike Parrot of CPL is bringing Dimi's brief to life. So I thought it would be a great project for our students to create a natural version, a project that I am participating in as well. Thus far it's coming along beautifully. Several NNAPA students are creating their version of this perfume brief, and each one is so very different from the others. Some have gone to extremes to portray the 'poisonous' and 'noxious' character of the brief, while others, myself included, are stepping into darkness with it, attempting to create an illusion of beauty with something rotten at its core.

Botanical Soap Making Class

Botanical Soap Making ~ $60
Saturday May 22, 2010
9:30am-3:00 pm
Justine Crane, Soap Maker
Make cold processed soap using fail safe methods perfected by soap maker, Justine Crane. Learn to make both form mold and box mold style soaps using essential oils, salts, clays and herbs. Swirling color will also be demonstrated. Wear an old, long-sleeved shirt to protect your arms from the lye being used in the soap making process. Gloves and goggles will be provided by the teacher. Safety issues will be presented and discussed extensively. A soap making booklet and two bars of pre-made soap will be yours to take home. Class is limited to 10 students, must be over 18 or accompanied by an adult.

Sign up here.

Tuesday, March 09, 2010

Online Perfumery Course

"Would you tell me, please, which way I ought to go from here?"

"That's depends a good deal on where you want to get to."...
(Alice in Wonderland, Lewis Carroll, 1865)

We present a year-long excursion into the magical world of the creation of Natural Botanical Perfumes, with tutor/instructor, Justine Crane.

Your tuition cost provides you with year-long instruction in Natural Botanical Perfumery, with tutor/instructor and student mentor support ~

* A 55+ essence evaluation kit~
* Comprehensive study guide/work book with additional evaluation work sheets, and trial work sheets ~
* A formulation kit of 20 primary perfume essences (to complete course assignments)~
* An online academy with 24-hour access~

The Admissions Committee reviews all submitted applications. Information supplied is treated with utmost confidentially.

A refundable application fee of €30 Euro ($40 USD) is required to begin the application process (the application fee will be included with the entire course cost if your application is accepted).

Course cost: €680 Euro ($950 USD). A non-refundable deposit of €160 Euro ($225 USD) is required after your application is accepted, and the remainder due April 20th, 2010. Course begins May 24th, 2010.

Space is limited to 20 students
Course Description ~

Antiquarian Perfumery/Natural Botanical Perfumery is a non-accredited course, and no prerequisites are required except a passion and desire to learn Natural Botanical Perfumery from the ground up. This course is recommended for those who desire to begin a career in NBP, or those who wish to broaden their educational horizons.

Includes information and instruction in:

A Brief History of Perfume, Spirit & Filth
Popular Historic Perfumery Ingredients
Evolution of Perfume Culture
Endangered Species Used in Perfumery
Storage & Shelf-Life of Raw Materials
Chemical Constituents of Essential Oils
Glossary of Terminology
Perfumers Studio ~ Beginning Perfumers Tools
The Perfumers Palette
Notes, Accords & Chords
Evaluating Raw Materials
Supplemental Scent Vocabulary
Continued Olfactory Training (tests)
Advanced Perfumers Tools & Techniques
Tinctures, Evulsions, Dilutions, Scales,
Oil-Based & Solid Perfume Making Techniques
Soap, Balms, Butters, Massage & Bath
Creating Perfume
Vertical/Horizontal Trial Studies
Intuitive Perfumery Formulation
Base Compound Formulation
Building a Floral Base, Amber Base,
Chypre Base, etc.
Creating Perfume on Paper
Advanced Composition Techniques
Sacrificial Perfume Materials
EdT’s, EdC’s, EdF’s, Aftershaves
“Fining” or Clarifying Finished Compositions
Coffee Filters vs. Laboratory/Winemaking Filters
Finishing the Composition
Creating Custom Perfumes
Following a Brief
Other Methods of Composition
Suggested Raw Materials

With full Sources, Bibliography, Website Links, Recommended Reading Lists, Sourcing Raw Materials & Suppliers Links, Worldwide Suppliers, Online Educational Sites, Groups, Research & References, Biopiracy Links, Brick & Mortar Shops, Quizzes and Answer Keys, Essence Evaluation Worksheets, Perfume Trial Worksheets, Assignments, Tutor/Instructor Support, Mentor Support and more.

FAQ's ~
How will the class be meeting online during the course of a given week?

The course is open 24 hours a day, 7 days a week, and students are free to enter and read the current open unit(s), and post on the forums at any time. The instructor and mentors will be in and out of the academy during the week as well, but there will be a set day during the week in which the instructor will be in the academy and available for instruction and questions.

What is the meaning of the words “spirit and filth” in regard to perfume history?

Spirit refers to perfumes spiritual aspects, its connection with honoring gods. Filth is in reference to short periods of time during history when perfume, bathing and bathing rituals were avoided or were unavailable.

What physical items do I receive for my tuition?

The 55+ evaluation kit includes 2 ml vials of 10% dilutions and a packet of 100 scent strips. The eval kit contains essences of jasmine sambac absolute, jasmine grandiflorum absolute, tuberose, cassie, rose otto, rose centifolia, rose damascena, palmarosa, rose geranium, bergamot, bitter orange, lemon, lime, santalum album, Himalayan cedar, Virginia cedar, vetiver, patchouli, oak moss, red cedar heartwood, neroli bigarade, petit grain sur fleur neroli, petit grain bigarade, orange blossom absolute, cassia, clove, nutmeg, black pepper, lavandin grosso, mailette lavender, lavender fine pop., rosemary, eucalyptus, badiane, sweet basil, sweet fennel, balsam Peru, balsam tolu, tonka, styrax, labdanum (incense variety), frankincense, myrrh, galbanum, peppermint, spearmint, pennyroyal, hyracium, choya loban, ambrette, nagarmotha, ylang-ylang extra, cananga, ho wood, vanilla, choya nakh and choya ral, plus any additional essences the instructor deems necessary or interesting to round out the evaluation unit.

Also included in tuition is a comprehensive work book/primer which closely follows the course curriculum, with slight variations. The work book includes history, safety, IFRA regulations, glossary, scent vocabulary, formulation methods, links to suppliers, recommended reading lists and much, much more. The work book serves a dual purpose as an instructional, similar to a text book, with work sheets to conduct study trials, essence evaluations and creation of perfume for independent home study.

A formulation kit is included in the course tuition as well, and includes 20 specially chosen essences which will be used by the student to complete course assignments. The kit includes undiluted oils of bergamot 5ml, coriander 5 ml, frankincense 5 ml, geranium 5 ml, ginger 5 ml, ho wood 5 ml, jasmine sambac absolute 5 ml, cistus 5 ml, lavender 5 ml, lemongrass 5 ml, neroli 2 ml, patchouli 5 ml, petit grain 5 ml, grapefruit 5 ml, rose de mai 2 ml, vetiver 5 ml, ylang-ylang 5 ml, Bulgarian rose concrete 5 ml, and oak moss 2 ml.

How are the classes given?

The classes are given on the Moodle academy format with 24 hour access. Each unit will be opened as we complete the previous unit. There will be assignments which can be completed on the Moodle format (copy and pasted from your computer). Forums for each unit are available for student/teacher, student/student and student/mentor interaction. Previous students have signed on as mentors to help motivate and inspire new students.
The learning platform we use provides the facilities to upload assignments, advanced uploading of files, off line activities and assignments, live chat sessions, pod casts, online video, quizzes and questions in a variety of formats, a glossary, a student journal, forums, online lessons in a secure environment, surveys and workshops.
We also provide training in how to use the site well in advance of the class beginning in order to build confidence and have site administrators and professional technical assistance on hand at all time should the need arise.

What is the benefit of taking this online course as opposed to researching and studying on my own?

This online course, and any other online course, serves to shorten the length of time, and ultimately the money spent, on learning this art form on your own. Instead of scouring the internet or jumping down rabbit holes in search of the holy grail of Natural Botanical Perfume information, you will be conducting evaluations and trial studies, the true “holy grail” of Natural Botanical Perfume information -- you will be doing the work that it takes to become a Natural Botanical Perfumer.

What special tools or supplies not included in the tuition do I need to be able to complete the course.

We’ve structured the course to give each student time in which to gather the required tools and supplies necessary to finish the course. To complete evaluations of your own materials, and to formulate perfumes, you will need to have on hand several dozen 5 to10 ml dropper bottles, 10- ½ oz cobalt or amber bottles with caps; 5- 1 oz cobalt or amber bottles with caps; 5- 2 oz cobalt or amber bottles with caps; 2- 4 oz cobalt or amber bottles with caps; droppers, funnels, filter paper, paper towels, isopropyl alcohol, skewers, self-adhesive labels or strips of paper, transparent tape, scent strips or squares of acid-free water color paper, small metal or glass cups, pipe cleaners, small bottle brush, pens, notebooks and a file folder. All these items are readily available and can be purchased inexpensively. During the advanced portion of the course, you will need to have on hand a digital scale capable of weighing at least as low as 1/100th of a gram (1/1000th of a gram is optimal), graduated cylinders in 2ml, 5ml, 10ml, 25ml and 50ml increments, and an ultrasonic cleaner (optional). A Neti pot is also recommended but not necessary.

What is the average amount of time necessary to review assignments and materials and conduct lab work per month?

When we reach the sections of the course which require lab work, it is estimated that 10-20 hours per month of study and evaluation is sufficient to complete the assignments.

Could you give me information on the application process?

The application process starts with the payment of a refundable application fee of 40.00 USD. After which we will send you the application forms which must be completed. Return the completed forms which are then reviewed by the applications committee. If you have been accepted you will be notified. The application fee will be deducted from the total cost of the course. In cases where applications are not accepted the application fee is refunded in full.

Course cost: $950 USD. A non-refundable deposit of $225 USD is required after your application is accepted, and the remainder due April 20th, 2010. Course begins May 24th, 2010. When the course fee is paid in full induction can begin. You will be allowed plenty of time to become familiar with the educational platform we use. You will receive tuition and training on the use of the site before the class date.

About the Instructor ~ Justine Crane has been actively studying and formulating specifically for perfume since 2003 (Actively making and selling scented natural handmade soaps, balms, butters, etc, since 1996), just before she opened her shop in the Tower District in Fresno, CA. Justine had nine months of intensive study time, evaluating essences daily, formulating for soaps, butters, balms, bombs, melts, and, yes, even little bottles of oil-based perfumes. The shop closed in 2005 because Justine lost her major investor (who decided to open a mall in Mexico!), but she carried on in the web-o-sphere. In October 2007, Justine started a little group called Black Nails, just herself, and two delightful women who were as interested in honing their perfumery skills as she was herself, and they spent a year studying Jean Carles, Edward Sagarin, Poucher, Verrill, Arctander, and obscure catalogs such as the Buyer's Guide & Cyclopedia for Soaps, Perfumery and Cosmetics, circa 1938. They conducted trials, shared formulas, evaluated essences and shared insights -- it was a marvelous education they created together. When it was done, Justine reopened her shop and began peddling her wares again. The previous year, in 2006, Justine started Le Parfumeur Rebelle, an online education and resource site to help novice Natural Botanical Perfumers access information and educational tools to help them along in their endeavors. And then along came the Natural Perfume Academy, and she has been teaching, and learning even more, since October 2008. Justine is currently re-writing the original primer for the year-long course into a work book, gathering information and more "insights" to perfumery from her notes and journals for this upcoming course, and, as if that weren't enough work, she in the process of publishing a paper version of Le Parfumeur Rebelle that will be packed with articles written by Natural Botanical Perfumers.

So, to break it all down:

1996 ~ began working with aromatics for the soap and body care trade
2003 ~ began study and work in perfumery formulations
2004 ~ opened a "live" shop in a trendy part of town
2006 ~ started Le Parfumeur Rebelle
2007 ~ took a year-long sabbatical to study with Black Nails
2008 ~ opened an online shop & began teaching at the Academy

Online references to Justine Crane


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