Friday, May 20, 2011
In the November 2010 issue of GCI there is an interesting article by Jeb Gleason (Allured) about Harry Fremont, the perfumer who composed Tom Ford Grey Vetiver and ck one. Mr. Fremont states that the success of a fragrance is based (usually) on the quality of the ingredients, and oftentimes on a new ingredient. "Natural products and molecules". He goes on to say that headspace technology has changed perfumery, but he keeps coming back to the issue of naturals. The vetiver in Grey Vetiver is used in proportions not usually used -- in other words, when these perfumers are given a brief, they are also given a budget, so some materials, usually naturals, can't be used to their full potential because of financial constraints. There appears to be a movement to increase the quality of the materials used in perfumes, which translates into using more naturals at higher concentrations than previously used. I just found this entire article striking in that Mr. Fremont seemed to be referencing a movement of sorts toward more use of naturals.
NBP's, if you don't already, I highly recommend you subscribe to GCI by going to their website at www.GCImagazine.com and requesting a free subscription. Yes, it's free and it's published by Allured business media, the same people who sell Arctander's books, as well as many, many other perfume-related technical, science and teaching texts.